Fuel lines

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Riddler

Riddler

Project EH-Body
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Just wondering what everyone has done for running fuel lines? I've got 2 options to consider. Hard line with adapter AN fittings or braided nylon/steel PTFE hose the entire run. Both would work but I think the hard line would be easier to secure to the car without it coming down in spots.

Anyone have pics of how they did theirs?

Riddler
 
I ended up using the factory hard line as my return and ran a full length braided line for the new feed all the way. A few p clamps holds the new line in place pretty well with very little sagging. No pictures at present, but I might be able to get some in the future. I would have preferred a hard line, but I just didn't feel like messing with it. I tend to have next to zero luck with hard lines ever working out how I picture them.
 
Riddler,

I used braided PTFE, I stuck the corvette filter/reg high on the inside frame rail above the diff to keep my return line short. I ran along the inside of the rail, down my subframe connector and up. I did put heat sleeve over it near the headers, and attached with some looms, no dropping or sagging and I only used a clamp every 2-3ft... I may have some pics on my home computer, I'll post them up.

Joe
 
I'm thinking that I'm giong to use 3/8" stainless hardline and use PTFE hose between the area's.

Can the fuel rail be converted to AN? Would hardline still need the heat sleeve?

Riddler
 
I found Russell connectors from speedway motors that convert the push on connectors (like te filter and fuel rail) to AN fittings. They work great. I'll get those pics of how close mine is, but I think I would still wrap hard line
 
I used part of a 3/8" hard S/S fuel line in the stock location. Then connected a braided fuel line to run through the frame connector. I used a thermal shield where the flex line ran forward near the headers. At the rear, I put the regulator above the rear axle and connected with flex lines.
If I had to do it again, I'd just use flex line all the way to avoid having to use fittings to connect to the S/S hard lines.
Jim
 

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I guess my concern with running the -6 line all the way it the PTFE cost.
But I guess the OEM 3/8" SS lines are $100 anyway....

Anyone know the fitting needed for the fuel rail?


Riddler
 
Riddler said:
I guess my concern with running the -6 line all the way it the PTFE cost.
But I guess the OEM 3/8" SS lines are $100 anyway....

Anyone know the fitting needed for the fuel rail?


Riddler
Click to expand...

I think I ended up running -8 all the way, but I used the Summit brand push lock hose. It looks like a rubber hose on the outside, but my understanding is that it's basically a braided nylon hose with a rubber covering. It meets NHRA spec though, so that's all that mattered to me since I wanted to be able to do test and tune nights. Wasn't too bad on price, though by the time you get all the fittings and stuff any system adds up.
 
Map63Vette said:
I think I ended up running -8 all the way, but I used the Summit brand push lock hose. It looks like a rubber hose on the outside, but my understanding is that it's basically a braided nylon hose with a rubber covering. It meets NHRA spec though, so that's all that mattered to me since I wanted to be able to do test and tune nights. Wasn't too bad on price, though by the time you get all the fittings and stuff any system adds up.
Click to expand...

Has anyone seen black braided PTFE hose? I was sold on a premium nylon braided hose with summit hose ends by a sales associate and now I'm not so sure.

I might just use this premium braided nylon hose and the summit racing fittings. Since I have them already.

I'd hate to have to re-buy every hose end and hose again.

Riddler
 
I used nylon tubing and wash-down Push-to-Connect bulkhead fittings on the Valiant for the supply & re-purposed the OE for the return. Screwed NPT-AN adapter fittings into the bulkheads (mounted in tabs) and ran emissions barrier hose on Push-Lock/Barb-tite hose ends. The page on the barrier hose says something about not using it on barbed fitings, so I'm not advocating following in my footsteps. It has been running as a DD this way for over a year.
 
The thing to be aware of, and the reason that I used the fittings and hose that I did, is that the SST over-braid collects dirt and grit. If it isn't kept clean and the hose moves a lot that dirt and grit goes to work on the braid eventually wearing it enough to be a problem. I have seen this happen on well maintained road race cars, so don't think it's purely a high mileage street car + braided SST hose problem.
 
I'm still looking for the correct the fuel rail fitting? Anyone have a part number or a link?

Thanks,

Riddler
 
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Russell-644123-EFI-Fuel-Fitting-6-AN-Male-to-3-8-SAE-Hardline-Screw-On-Type-/331202705537?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1d383881&vxp=mtr"]Russell 644123 EFI Fuel Fitting 6 An Male to 3 8" SAE Hardline Screw on Type | eBay[/ame]
 
Here are the parts I used for my fuel line ordered from summit.
RUS-639480 25ft Aluminum fuel line 3/8" $41.97
RUS-639203 Adapter fitting 3/8 line to -6AN $18.97
RUS-640853 Fuel rail Fitting 3/8 in, -6AN
One issue I had was with the plastic clip in the fuel rail fitting. It came loose so I cut apart a factory quick connect and used the metal retainer clip instead in place of the plastic one for a secure connection.
In checking summit they say it is not available and has been replaced with RUS-644123 $14.97
 
Thats because the aftermarket quick connect fittings have been known to leak.
 
Seems like one more junction to possibly fail. Why not just put a tube nut and sleeve on the hardline and flare it 37°? Is it not 3/8" or is it too short to do that?
 
The plastic retainer seemed to be the weak link in the aftermarket connector so I could see why they are known to leak. Luckily the metal retainer I cut out of a factory line fit perfectly into the Russell fitting and made for a more solid connection that so far has been leak free.

I considered the tube nut, sleeve and flare route, but I do not have a flaring tool to even see if there is enough tube length coming off the fuel rail to attempt this. I also figured if I ever run into an issue down the road I can quickly swap the fuel rail without any extra work.
 
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