Will new torsion bars correct that POS, bucket-o-bolts feel I have?
Thanks all.
More info however, so after the complete front end rebuild, including pitman and idler with bearings, and a slight tightening adjustment to the power steering unit which suffers from what I would call mild slop.....I had it professionally aligned. She steers straight and true. New shocks too. Mild bumps don't upset it bad, but when it seems to go bonkers is as you are slowing down for a turn at an intersection where the roads are often not smooth. The combination of mild braking, turning and bumps throws it into a tizzy.
What can I expect with new stiffer torsion bars.
More info is still needed. I assume the complete front rebuild included lower control arm bushings, and a check of the K frame pivots.
"A professional alignment" doesn't tell us much. It doesn't mean, for example, that it was aligned for the more modern radial tires you're probably running. Do you know the alignment specifications? Most "professional" shops will set the alignment to factory specs, which will not help handling. You need something in the neighborhood of -.25º to -.5º of camber, +3º (or more) caster, and 1/8" to 1/16" toe-in. Those are nowhere near the factory specs, which are for bias plys.
What tires are you running (brand and size)? What shocks are you running? New shocks doesn't mean anything if they're $14 Gabriels. Stock front sway bar?
To answer your question, no, stiffer torsion bars by themselves won't cure your problems. At the very least, larger torsion bars need to be paired with better shocks. I run Bilstein RCD's and Fox's, the difference compared to even the KYB's that used to be on my Challenger is HUGE. I also run 1.12" bars, and agree with 67Dart273, with good shocks its almost impossible to run torsion bars that are "too big", especially on an e-body. My Duster also runs 1.12" torsion bars, which are 30 lb/in heavier than the E-body version. But they have to be paired with good shocks.
E-body's are flexy flyers. Even more so than the A-body's. I know, hard to believe. Even with my 1.12" torsion bars and RCD's my Challenger isn't where my Duster is, and that's because my Duster has frame connectors and torque boxes. If you really want to have a nice, solid feeling when cornering, you'll need a set of frame connectors. There's just a ton of body flex otherwise.
Tires are important too, they have to be part of the equation. Even BFG T/A's shouldn't be as awful as what you're describing. To really handle well, you'd need to go above and beyond that. Which is a problem if you want to keep your 15" rims.
With an E-body I'd go up past 1" bars. At least 1.03". Pair them with a GOOD set of shocks. With the right alignment, you should eliminate a lot of body roll and chatter while cornering. If you really want your car to feel nice and solid, you'll also need some kind of frame connectors. My Challenger still doesn't have them, and while it doesn't feel like its going to fall apart, it also is still a far cry from a nice solid chassis.
But something is still missing. What you're describing sounds like a bigger issue than just the stock torsion bars and cheap shocks. These cars don't instill confidence while cornering in their stock form, but they shouldn't be bouncing and chattering all over the place either.
