My single turbo Wayfarer Ute build

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70wayfarer

70wayfarer

Well-Known Member
Joined
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Location
new zealand
hi all, I've been lurking around the forced induction forums for a while now checking out other builds and gathering info for my build.
I am a few weeks away from first start up so need some advice on a few things I'm not 100% sure about.
I'll start with my combo....

360 + .040"
Eagle 4" forged crank internal balance
Eagle forged rods
Mahle dished pistons
CR 9.2:1
ARP mains studs
ARP head studs
Cometic MLS head gaskets, .051"
Smog iron heads, 1.6 & 202 ss valves, ported
M1 intake
Cam 486/502 @ 50 113 lsa
ProSystems blow through carb, EV hat
Borg Warner S475 turbo 1.32 AR
65mm Tial wastegate
50mm Tial BOV
MSD 6530 programmable
MSD pro billet dissy
Mallory boost referenced reg
Walbro 255 pumps x 2
600 x 300 intercooler, 3.5" piping
built 727, Cope reverse manual vb
PTC 9.5" 3800 stall converter
 

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Nice ute mate!
Have you smashed this beast down the 402m yet?
It warms to cockles of my heart to see such a sweet mopar in good old Aoteroa! I wish you were on my island so I could see it in person.
 
That is beautiful! Would kill ,to have a Aussie ute . Nice combination.
 
more pics
I fabricated my own forward facing headers with 1 3/4 primary to 3" collector with 2 1/4" crossover pipe to a common collector for the turbo. the wastegate pipe is 2 1/2".
 

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Abodybomber said:
That is beautiful! Would kill ,to have a Aussie ute . Nice combination.
Click to expand...

cheers....you don't see many of them on the road anymore, mine is the only one at the track that I know of. I've been campaigning at the track for about 7 years with varying combos and success. when I first got her she was stock standard complete with 225 and 3 speed column change, brown metallic paint. that evolved into 383/727 for a few years then 360/727 na, then added V2 vortech, and now 410/727 turbo:burnout:
has 9" and home made caltracs up the back and 3.5:1 gears 275 60r15 toyo tires 28" tall for the street and will run 28x12.5 15 et street for the strip.
 
more pics
 

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thanks for the cool feedback guys.

I could do with some help on setting up the msd 6530, wastegate, bov.
i'm not running a trans brake so need to know the best way to trigger the launch control. do have a hurst roll control so was thinking of triggering it with that.
 
70wayfarer said:
thanks for the cool feedback guys.

I could do with some help on setting up the msd 6530, wastegate, bov.
i'm not running a trans brake so need to know the best way to trigger the launch control. do have a hurst roll control so was thinking of triggering it with that.
Click to expand...

Might try a post in the ignition & electrical thread,mate.
 
Great work on the headers mate!.. they turned out great.
What issues are you having with the msd, bov and wastegate?

Id just trigger the launch control with a separate switch mounted somewhere running through a relay, only problem I can see running it along side the roll control is the chance itll start turning the rear tyres if the fronts are locked.
But it could definitely work with it if need be
 
cheers Wardy....
will the wastegate need the appropriate spring, and it has two barbed fittings, one on top and one on the side.
the bov has the supercharger spring in it so this will need to be changed. I think they arte rated in psi of boost.
as for the 6530, I have mounted it on the left side kick panel. have got most of the wiring sorted now and the rest over the next couple of days. need to know how to set up the program etc for first startup.
over the next 10 days I will be ready to turn the key.
will have new ali fuel tank and fabricated over the weekend and fuel system sorted. will be running a single 4" exhaust so will make a ss muffler as well.

man i'm getting excited to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
put new Toyo 275 60 15s on the back today, those with the 3.5 gears should be ok for the road, and will use 28" et streets for the strip.

did I mention i'm getting excited:burnout:
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOEP_jVNe9A"]2014 Wanganui Drags Taupo Quay 23 February #3 - YouTube[/ame]

this was the ute going hard with the Vortech setup. absolutely f^*ked the tires.
 
Sounds awesome mate, keen to hear the results!

Wastegates work best when you have the closest Possible springs to your desired boost level fitted. But remember you can't run less boost then what springs are in there.
Your boost reference gets fitted to the barb on the side, so when the boost overcomes the spring pressure it lifts the diaphragm upward... The top one is used when running elec boost controllers and can hold the wastegate shut tight until it's told to open up... Bit more complicated.

With the msd.. I'll do my best to explain. Make sure the dizzy is locked. And you need to drop the dizzy in at the MAX timing you wish to see.. So a good start I've found for a sb mopar is 30 degrees btdc.. The 6530 will pull timing out but cannot add it, hence why you need to drop it in at your max timing.
So find 30 degrees on the balncer, line #1 up on the dizzy and drop it in.
Open up the msd software and find the start retard curve.
It come up as a graph, on the vertical axis is the timing.. Remember 0 on the graph is your static 30 degrees! I normally pull down to 15 degrees to help with start up and prevent kickback etc.

So in one of the tabs up the top find the "add a dot" and click it. Put a dot on 15 on the vertical axis and 0 on the horizontal.

The horizontal axis is your rpm.. So I program the msd to hold the 15 degrees until just before your idle speed (say 600rpm) then it goes back up to your 30 degrees.

So add another dot, and place it on the 600rpm on the horizontal and 0 on the vertical. So you should have a rough 45 degree line from 15 degrees to 600rpm.. If that makes sense lol.
And whenever you have done anything your happy with you MUST press the "copy to msd" button or it won't work.

Pulling timing with boost is a lot more complicated to explain in text, but I'll try my best when the time comes. If you plan to use this feature make sure you get a 2 or 3 bar map sensor, as they read atmospheric pressure (which is pretty much 1 bar) the 1 bar sensor is already maxed out! And is only good for n/a purposes

I hope all that jibber jabber has helped you in some way lol
 
clear as mud Wardy LOL. i'll upload the 6530 disc to my laptop and have a looksee and try and get familiar with it. what you have said does make sense.

the wastegate came with a 15 psi spring. the top fitting is basically not used in my app then, so can I plug it or should it stay vented.
do I need to put a fitting on the turbo cold side housing. this would need to be done now if so before I button things up.
 

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Haha Yeh it'll make alot more sense once your actually looking at it. I was confused when I first started too..

Just leave the top fitting open if you don't plan to use it.. Did you get any lighter springs with the wastegate? I always like to start low (in boost and timing) and slowly creep up to avoid engine damage on a new combo

I also always get my signal from the intake manifold for the wastegate, as you will get a pressure drop between the compressor housing and the intake, you won't be getting the desired boost pressure into the engine. Eg. When comnnected to the turbo compressor, it might be pushing 15psi when the wastegate is open, but the intake is only seeing 12psi. If you get the signal from the intake manifold the gate won't open till the manifold sees 15psi.
 
G'day mate, your setup is looking good, how is the clearance with the 4" pipe and the wheel at full lock? I've got a dummy engine in a mockup engine bay and it looks like a 4" pipe would be close to touching the tyre at full lock. I guess it depends on tyre size and how low you have your car.

I run the 6530 on my turbo 318 and Wardys spot on the money with setting it up, ill add a few things I did.
-I used a factory chrysler lean burn 318 dizzy which is locked from the factory (no advance mechanism)
-I set it up at 38BTDC and locked it there, to check this get it in the ball park like Wardy said, but check it with an adjustable timing like to verify its real timing it will usually need to be moved a few degrees back or forth.
-Depending on what dizzy you use rotor phasing can be an issue, ie. if you lock your dizzy at 38deg you have to make sure you don't get cross firing when pulling too much timing.

This is my graph below hope this helps your setup, I'll explain it briefly,

I run a 3 bar MAP sensor, so it reads 0 to 45, 0 being full vacuum, 15PSI being Atmosphere (WOT in an N/A engine) and 45 being 30PSI (Boost)

Top graph is the "boost retard" used for all engine running and bottom is "RPM retard" which pulls timing just for cranking/starting

It shows that when I'm at cruise (Full vacuum) 0psi the MSD doesnt pull any timing so its at 38 degrees.

NOTE: I bought a generic 3 bar MAP of Evilbay and the scaling in it was off out of the box so it read atmospheric pressure as 17psi not 14.7psi as it should. In most aftermarket ECU's you can rescale the sensor in the ECU software but the MSD is a very basic setup and you can't rescale the sensor to suit, so in my graph 17psi is atmospheric pressure or WOT on an N/A engine.

Timing gets pulled when it reaches "atmospheric" to 32 degrees BTDC and i dont pull anymore timing til it gets to 3PSI it then pulls timing vs Boost as showed in the graph.

Before i road tested the retard under boost, I setup an air reg with a gauge (shop compressed air) and connected it to the MAP sensor with the engine running at idle i applied pressure (to mimic boost pressure) to make sure it pulled timing out and verified with a timing light. Easy way to make sure its pulling timing.

Hope this helps if you have anymore questions ask
 

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OMG:banghead: I hate technology. kinda wish I kept the btm and 6al. oh well, got it now, got to get my head around it.
any who, must get on with other jobs that won't make my head explode.
spent the last few days getting nearly finished jobs finished. have got the engine bay all but sorted, just a bit of wiring. have done the exhaust right through. ended up making a muffler. think it will be loud, may add a smaller one at back if so. could not get hold of any 4" perforated tube so 300 1/4" holes later. pics coming of that
 
moving right along.....exhaust done. started to fab my fuel tank. will hold 60 litres ish.
things have gotten tight in the front and finding room for the trans cooler has become an issue. thinking of putting it up back with a fan on it. not too many options there now.

the issue I had with the msd pro data software is now sorted. will have that sorted hopefully over the coming weekend. waiting for a map sensor to turn up.
 

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