Divorced choke resistor

RedFish said
Yours cant be the single one different from all others. The choke is thermal/mechanical. If you lift it from the well you will see an adjustment point but that had to be there due to the variance in the metal coils, etc.. It's not meant for repeated/field use.
I find it hard to believe you can drive the car with the choke baffle closed.
The most common fault condition is a change in carb or the base gasket thickness.
One can grab that linkage rod, pull it up and connect it ( it is attached to a spring like coil after all ) but the temp swing would never be enough to undo what was done by hand. To rework the bends in that linkage rod is a more practical method.
And by the way... I don't see the end of the electric assist element sticking out of the choke well in your pic.

I hooked it up by operating the choke linkage and it slid in the hole in the linkage easily. I manually set the fast idle screw and cam on the second step, then started the car. The choke plate was sitting at about 3/32" from closing off completely. After idling for about 15 minutes it opened up to about 1/4" but never opened any further. I thought it might just need to warm up some more so I drove it home that way and seemed to be all right although she may have been running a little rich and was idling higher than usual. Even punching the gas, in neutral, did not get the choke or fast idle cam to release. Got home, pulled the rod back out and everything dropped into place normal. Obviously, it's not pulling back as it should so I'm thinking the spring broke? Haven't pulled it out yet so not sure. Just saw that electrical connector, and not knowing about the system, I thought maybe that might be the issue. From what you guys are saying, it's not.