Originally: before there were any modifications to any wiring. I ran a 4 gauge wire with a giant fuse, from the 138 amp alternator, to the starter relay. This is because I needed the car to function, while move it around during the build process, and it's my opinion, a amp-meter might be okay for a 38 amp alternator, but not a 138 amp unit. Plus the wiring harness to the instrument panel is probably stiff as hell. Since electrical was the last process in the build. First I ran two 10 gauge fused/circuit breaker ( have no Idea what amps yet) wires to two 30 amp relays. Next I ran the purple, and red wires, one to each relays. Than ( because of availability I ran a blue ( cold ) 14 gauge wire from the low beam - relay to the drives side headlamp, than to the passengers side. On relay be I did the same with the red ( hot= high beam ) 14 guage. Than I ran a black 10 guage from the drivers side HL to the passenger side HL, and than back to the rad support by the other grounds. The side marker had a ground that went directly to the rad support already. ( Before I touched anything the drivers side HL, pigtailed it's ground off to the passenger side HL, and than the side marker.) So on the passenger side HL plug pigtail, I soldered the two black together. So that ground now runs like this - Drivers side marker, to passenger side marker, and back to the common rad support ground. Last time I did this harness, I didn't replace the headlight switch, or dimmer with anything more than a stock NAPA replacement. Only because the old switches looked like they had 45 years of nasty all over them. That system, with it's cheap plastic/glass h4 housings lasted 7 years. Whether it was good luck I had no bad luck, I can't say. This car is getting overkilled on everything. So now you have a complete back ground, and story, thanks guys, and have at it.