axle question

grumpuscreature said

The big problem with the stock axle bearings was getting the preload right. This was adjusted by pulling the passenger side axle and using a special tool to reach in and turn the thrust button in the differential to make it longer or shorter, then reinstall the axle, remeasure end play, and repeat as needed. About as much fun as screwing a porcupine. Since you are replacing the stock open diff with a Sure Grip you will need to go through this process at least once if you use the stock bearings (if you're lucky). Use the Moser bearings you are comfortable with...

Click to expand...

I think that you have some wrong information here.....axle endplay (not preload!) on an 8 3/4 with stock tapered wheel bearings is actually quite simple to set up - no hassle at all. It can be done as per the service manual by measuring the endplay of the axle, and adjusting the adjuster located on the pass side axle in the brake assembly, or if you don't have a dial indicator to measure the play you can tighten the adjuster (by hand) until there is no endplay and then back the adjuster off a specific number of notches. The number escapes me now, but I am sure someone here will chime in.

You will find many debates on whether the tapered roller factory bearings can safely be replaced with a sealed ball bearing (green or other manufacturer) for street use, but the simple fact is that the tapered roller bearing does have more capacity to handle side loads (cornering), and is proven with billions of miles in cars since the 60's with little to no failures.

The sealed ball bearings were introduced in the aftermarket and were designed for drag cars where center sections ere routinely changed to change the gear ratio.