Six cylinder torsion bars with big block
Here's another way of looking at it. It's very easy to swap the bars. If you try what I'm saying and you find it unacceptable, you can always swap them out.
I don't think you understand the point that the rest of us are trying to make. Most of us find the stock torsion bars unacceptable PERIOD. With ANY engine combination, including the engine those bars were intended for. These cars were horribly undersprung from the factory, be it /6's with /6 bars or V8's with V8 bars, they aren't enough. They NEVER were. Can you drive them like that? Of course you can. Can you drive them without constantly bottoming your suspension at anything other than 4wd ride height? No, you can't. Can take corners without massive amounts of body roll? No. Does that effect your ability to stop, make quick corrections, and avoid accidents? Absolutely.
And yes, I drove my challenger with its stock V8 bars and its 318. And yes, I drove my 71 Dart with its stock 340 bars (318 w/ AC). And I even drove my /6 Duster with its stock /6 bars. They were all horrible. Let me repeat, HORRIBLE. Thousands and thousands of these cars were wiped out because of big power and marginal control.
I even upgraded my Duster to 1" torsion bars when I went to a 318. And you know what? They were still too soft for "aggressive" handling. Fine for street driving. But I now have 1.12" torsion bars in my Duster, even with headers, aluminum intake, aluminum radiator, and manual steering, no AC, aluminum master cylinder, cobra calipers, etc, etc. And I still run large aftermarket sway bars. And that's with a 340 and an 833.
You can do a lot of things and get away with it for awhile. It doesn't make it the right way to do it.
