List of Disc Brake Donor Cars

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mguner

How many is too many?
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These are some of the cars that use the same rotors and spindles as the Darts and Dusters from 73 up that had the large ball joints.
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Spindles on F, M and J bodies (Aspens, Dippys, Miradas) aren't the same as A bodies - they might work, but aren't the same. Rotors are, though...
 
Spindles on F, M and J bodies (Aspens, Dippys, Miradas) aren't the same as A bodies - they might work, but aren't the same. Rotors are, though...
Correct, the spindles are a little taller between the ball joints but I have put them on both A and B bodies with good results. Somebody will probably jump in with technospeak about Ackerman angles and bump steer this and that but the things do align and drive fine without eating the tires.
 
This thread is getting better and better :cheers:
Keeping an eye on this thread becouse my next move is Disc Brake's for Victoria and all the donor cars that will be a good match for it/her :glasses7:
 
Why not get a kit for the 10 inch drum spindles you have?
I thought I could get your attention D :D
This old brain needs a refresher course on everything I need to do to them in simple terms sir. Could you explain the retro fit here for us PLEASE :cheers:
Yes I have been hanging on to them for this day right here bud :color:
 
I'm pretty sure the spindles on my 68 Coronet are from an M body. The upper control arm had a mount similar to a Chebby with a dogbone through the bushings. Things can get interesting because sometimes the calipers can get in the way of the sway bar tabs and you will want to swap sides to allow the sway bar to fit. This is another of those things that works but is going to cause Albert Einstein to spin in his grave because the Ackerman angles and the henweigh won't line up. Again I have driven the cars with no tire eating or bump steer issues although I have not road raced them. I think there could be an advantage to the taller spindles in a drag application. They would allow more down travel which could keep your front tires in contact with additional weight transfer.
 
I used the front spindles, calipers and rotors from an 85 5th Ave on the 68 Dart in my avatar. To do this I also had to use control arms from a later model Duster which used the larger ball joints. Once you have the controll arms for the large ball joints it is a matter of just bolting stuff together and routing or adapting brake lines. When chosing a master cylinder remember the smaller bore gives you more power but less volume. If you are going manual you will probably like the feel of the smaller bore master cylinder better. If you want rear disc brakes I use 94-97 Intrepid / Concorde / Eagle front rotors and GM metric E-brake calipers with Speedway weld on brackets.
 
Everything here will work for spindles, rotors, calipers, etc. The most helpful for folks trying to hit the yards are the 5th ave's and the diplomat's, since the cars from the late eighties still show up in the scrap yards on a semi-regular basis. Obviously, you'd still need big ball joint UCA's, or Dr. Diff's tapered adaptors.

CHRYSLER CORDOBA (1975 - 1983)
CHRYSLER FIFTH AVENUE (1983 - 1989)
CHRYSLER IMPERIAL (1981 - 1983)
CHRYSLER LEBARON (1977 - 1981)
CHRYSLER NEW YORKER 1982
CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1977 - 1981)
DODGE ASPEN (1976 - 1980)
DODGE CHALLENGER (1973 - 1974)
DODGE CHARGER (1973 - 1975)
DODGE CORONET 1975
DODGE DART (1973 - 1976)
DODGE DIPLOMAT (1977 - 1989)
DODGE MIRADA (1980 - 1983)
PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA (1973 - 1974)
PLYMOUTH CUDA (1973 - 1974)
PLYMOUTH DUSTER (1973 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH FURY (1975 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH GRAN FURY (1982 - 1989)
PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER (1973 - 1974)
PLYMOUTH SATELLITE (1973 - 1974)
PLYMOUTH SCAMP (1973 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH VALIANT (1973 - 1976)
PLYMOUTH VOLARE (1976 - 1980 )

As far as the spindles go, the FMJ spindles are actually better for negative camber gain. There's a whole article on it here that actually maps out the toe and camber curves. For 99% of the people on this board it will make no noticeable difference when driving the car. The horror stories made up about binding and such is total nonsense. I run the FMJ spindles on my cars without issues.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/
 
The FMJ stuff works great. Don't let anyone tell you any differently.
 
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