I had asked him this once. IIRC, his response was they simply didn't worry about it as back then the order was to get them out ASAP and it was during a time rollcages & snout-bars weren't required so they didn't worry about precision to connect the snout bars to the front suspension. If it's that major a concern, I'd ask Greg as I'm sure he has some modern-day solution. If you get a chance to look at a few real S/S cars there's no consistency in the builds. SOme are clearenced real well, others look like a drunk went after the fender. I've also noticed brake distribution blocks & brake line routing is inconsistent and cars even got shipped lacking fibregalss or had broken windows with their replacement just sitting in the car.
If it were me, doing a clone, & I wanted the most accurate as possible, I'd use a basic 'cuda as a guide, since that was the statring point, but add frame connectors & use a brace from a Dart/Duster front fender 'glassed onto the 'glass fenders at the rear for adjustment & build the car per whatever model you're using. These two additions will go a long way in increasing your car's durability, appearence & simplicity in completing the build. As an aside to the clone "thing", having built a tubbed car & 2 mini-tubbed ones, I'd stick with the mini-tubs. People seem to dig 'em more & if you ever take it to the track, unless you're in the 800hp range (and some would say even then) you won't need that much tire to get it to hook....
