Tig torch...

Tig torch control....


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inkjunkie

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Which do you prefer? Did not include water cooled ones as I do not see the need for the expense of the whole setup for your typical hobbyist....
 
The foot pedal offers great control, you just have to have the coordination.
Then it's great!
 
I like the foot pedal set up, one less thing to do with your hands so you can focus on the weld. Pretty intuitive anyway, the coordination isn't a big deal. Works the same as a gas pedal, and I'm sure you know how to work one of those. :D

All the TIG stuff I've had has been water cooled, so I don't know about the quality on the other stuff. My current set up is a Miller 320 AB/P with an external water cooler. Works great, the set up is a little more difficult than the modern stuff since its a '72, but once its set up it welds great. And no digital anything to break, all old solid state stuff.
 
I like the foot pedal set up, one less thing to do with your hands so you can focus on the weld. Pretty intuitive anyway, the coordination isn't a big deal. Works the same as a gas pedal, and I'm sure you know how to work one of those. :D

This is my thought as well. The only time I would use a hand control is if I'm doing some crazy out of position stuff where I can't get my foot on the pedal.
 
I like the foot pedal set up, one less thing to do with your hands so you can focus on the weld. Pretty intuitive anyway, the coordination isn't a big deal. Works the same as a gas pedal, and I'm sure you know how to work one of those. :D

All the TIG stuff I've had has been water cooled, so I don't know about the quality on the other stuff. My current set up is a Miller 320 AB/P with an external water cooler. Works great, the set up is a little more difficult than the modern stuff since its a '72, but once its set up it welds great. And no digital anything to break, all old solid state stuff.

I have talked with a friend that owned a fab shop. He did suggest I at least look into a water cooled setup. He told me that unless I was going to be pushing the machine to its duty cycle a very simple setup would work. I mentioned I have a chiller from my old aquarium and he said that would be more than enough....just need a small reservoir and a pump....

My machine is from 04 or so I believe. I used the machine at a class I was at, seemed to work well. A Miller rep was there and said that it is a hard to beat machine...not as easy to use as one of the newer ones but at the price they were asking it was a great deal....
 
I got a old airco 250 heliwelder, water cooled. I believe its from the 70s.
Wouldn't trade it for a new machine. Does everything I turn it on for very well.
Even very thin aluminum. Heavy or large pieces of aluminum or steel pre heat
to save time warming part with torch.
 
I have always used a water cooled torch set up.
The coordination on the foot pedal response was aimed at some of the people i have tried to teach how to tig weld in the past......some people don't have it.
 
Been doing all my practice so far with just the torch switch, trying to work on puddle control and moving/feeding wire at appropriate speeds. Prob won't mess with my pedal until I feel a little more confident with just the switch.
 
Been doing all my practice so far with just the torch switch, trying to work on puddle control and moving/feeding wire at appropriate speeds. Prob won't mess with my pedal until I feel a little more confident with just the switch.

Have only ever used a pedal. Then again have only used the machine a few times so.....
 
I personally have a Lincoln sq175 with an air cooled 17 series torch running a gas lense. It does most things I need to do around my garage. When you get the amps up or weld for long it definitely gets hot. The hose/power cable is stiff and can be a pain sometimes, once it gets warm its like a noodle though. I have a Bernard cooler with a series 20 torch I have not hooked up yet. At my work I use a Lincoln Precision Tig 375 that has the Lincoln hoses on a 20 series torch. The hoses are on the pricey side, but they are so comfortable to weld with. I run higher amps and it never gets to hot. I prefer water cooled, but air cooled torches weld thinner stuff great. If you do get a water cooled make sure you never let it over heat. I checked the water level at work a couple weeks ago and when I opened the bottom cabinet the tig cooler pump came unplugged. After a few second of running high amps I had a smoking power cable/cooler line in my lap. That was a $145 cable.

Kyle
 
If you're buying a new torch go water cooled. If you use it enough then buy or build some sort of chiller. If not, then rig up a water hose connection and water the lawn with the discharge. I know several guys set-up exactly this way and it works fine.
 
Im glad I learned with no pedal.
When your laying on your back woth the torch overhed its hard to work the pedal...

I also think the pedal is a "crutch" for some folks.

When I use the Tig in a comfy standing position I use the pedal and move the torch.
 
I just prop the pedal up against one of the jack-stands. In the old days, before auto-darkening lenses, it was a bit more difficult.
 
Im glad I learned with no pedal.
When your laying on your back woth the torch overhed its hard to work the pedal...

I also think the pedal is a "crutch" for some folks.

When I use the Tig in a comfy standing position I use the pedal and move the torch.
Would indeed be difficult to use a go pedal while on your back....

I just prop the pedal up against one of the jack-stands. In the old days, before auto-darkening lenses, it was a bit more difficult.
The few times I have messed around with the tig machine I struggled with the angle of the pedal....thanks for the tip
 
I just prop the pedal up against one of the jack-stands. In the old days, before auto-darkening lenses, it was a bit more difficult.

Thats frickin funny!
Gonna have to try that.

Inkjunky Try a small section of 2x4 under the rear of the pedal.
Some folks like the pedal to sit flat.
Get use to using your "other" foot and holding the torch in your other hand.

you may find you feel beter in a way that you would not think is normal and its good practice.

get short sections of exh tube at kragen Chop saw that sucker into donughts and make back into pipe....


These days I cant do any project with out the TIG. I used it when installing new floors in my house.. I broke the fence on the table saw..
 
Thats frickin funny!
Gonna have to try that.

Inkjunky Try a small section of 2x4 under the rear of the pedal.
Some folks like the pedal to sit flat.
Get use to using your "other" foot and holding the torch in your other hand.

you may find you feel beter in a way that you would not think is normal and its good practice.

get short sections of exh tube at kragen Chop saw that sucker into donughts and make back into pipe....


These days I cant do any project with out the TIG. I used it when installing new floors in my house.. I broke the fence on the table saw..

Exhaust tube...never thought of that. I saved all the junk pieces from my bike table I just put together...was going to mess with around with them....Thanks for the idea...
 
If you're buying a new torch go water cooled. If you use it enough then buy or build some sort of chiller. If not, then rig up a water hose connection and water the lawn with the discharge. I know several guys set-up exactly this way and it works fine.

Had some time today to mess with the TIG machine.....I will be getting a liquid cooled setup for it some time down the road. BY the time I got a puddle started and got a bead going I could feel the heat thru the glove....
 
Looking into Weldcraft/Miller water cooled torches. Apparently need 2 different adapters to hook it up to my machine.....damn adapters are more than the the torch/hose set...
 
if you have the weld joint in good position and it 1/8 or less on steel I just set the dial at like 60 amps and ramp up with the switch on the torch handle and ramp down at the end. you may have to install a remote switch?
 
if you have the weld joint in good position and it 1/8 or less on steel I just set the dial at like 60 amps and ramp up with the switch on the torch handle and ramp down at the end. you may have to install a remote switch?

Foot control count as a remote switch?
 
A lot of chassis builders run their machines as 'strike-arc' and don't use any "throttle". Not so sure about off-road chassis guys, my understanding is that this is most common with drag race guys. The difference mostly being that drag race chassis are single pass welds while off-road have a root bead and then a 'wash weld'.

I tried this just to see if I could do it and it clearly takes a lot of practice to be able to instinctively set the machine correctly.
 
A lot of chassis builders run their machines as 'strike-arc' and don't use any "throttle". Not so sure about off-road chassis guys, my understanding is that this is most common with drag race guys. The difference mostly being that drag race chassis are single pass welds while off-road have a root bead and then a 'wash weld'.

I tried this just to see if I could do it and it clearly takes a lot of practice to be able to instinctively set the machine correctly.
A friends son is in the process of building 2 off road race trucks, will ask Jared how he is melting them together.
 
A lot of chassis builders run their machines as 'strike-arc' and don't use any "throttle". Not so sure about off-road chassis guys, my understanding is that this is most common with drag race guys. The difference mostly being that drag race chassis are single pass welds while off-road have a root bead and then a 'wash weld'.

I tried this just to see if I could do it and it clearly takes a lot of practice to be able to instinctively set the machine correctly.

Jared told me that what you are talking about is more for industrial welding. All the tig stuff he has done on the race trucks is your standard, run of the mill tig work....
 
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