383 refresh combo opinions..

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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I have decided to refresh the 383 going in my 71 Demon and have this planned for it -

68 383 2bbl out of New Yorker derby car - seen video of it running - sat outside for a month uncovered

.030" over bore w/ KB162's or 366AP's
The decks have been milled (I measured the deck to piston @.015"-.020")
.022" head gaskets were on it and plan to use them again
Comp XE268H-10 cam (268/280 .477/.480 w/ 1.5 - may run a 1.6 rocker for more lift - .508/.512 w/ 1.6 rocker)
71 440 "346" heads, unknown aftermarket springs came on them - going to use them- plan on a clean up porting of them before freshening them as well as milling to clean them - these are off a running 440 and only have a stripped plug hole - but no sense in saving a buck on the heads when I'm having the engine done..
Edelbrock RPM intake w/ 1" open spacer (best of both worlds) - possibly a little porting on this as well
Holley 750 4160VS carb
crank under drive pulley
Summit 1 3/4" headers, 2.5" x pipe, and Dynomax Ultraflows (Summit tail pipes stock tips)
stock 727 w/ shift kit, Hurst shifter
B body 8 3/4 w/ 3.23 suregrip

Comp's Camquest says the cam works with the stock converter and that is my plan to keep it for budget sake if you guys now of a better one feel free to chime in! The motor will take all winter to save for so any of this could change -

I am considering the 366AP's as there is a wholesaler on eBay selling a full set of pistons/cast rings for $290 shipped (Summit wants $468 for them)

Let me know what you think- the motor does run currently but has a tiny ridge in the bores, scoring on the crank/rod journals, as well as the "pits" in the valley filled with very fine metal (lots of metal- and lots came out of the lower bearings when I flushed it with straight ATF)

Also would 3" exhaust net any real gains over 2.5" even with the same Dynomax mufflers (straight thru Ultraflow oval mufflers)

 
fratzog lover said:
Hooray for another 383 finding a new life. Someone will post to talk you into a 440 build in 3...2...1...
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440 will not happen - I paid $175 for the complete 383 I have and don't feel like dealing with the headaches of the 440 in a A body - I only got the 383 cause it was $175 otherwise it'd get a 360 magnum/727

I would like to see 1hp per CU.IN or a little better - since that fella just got a 7.5:1 400 to make 360hp/400tq with just swapping the intake/carb (stock 2bbl to 4bbl) and I'm planning a (9:1 KB's (9.5:1 w/ 366AP's) 383 with 440 heads and a better cam..
 
The 383 is a great engine. Small for a big block but with its own distinct personality. With the right cam and valve train they can be screamers. Its the Rodney Dangerfield of big blocks. Good luck with it. Hope to start my 383 soon.
 
beware ebay stuff. some is ok some is trash. 50/50 chance. just get the kb's

but first... before you get pistons

i'd get the block over to a machine shop get it tanked / bores cleaned up /checked

new gasket kit. felpro. you dont want a leaky pete

have shop check cam / main / rod bearings

new oil pump for sure.

take lots of pics, as you disassemble keep all things ordered. rods/mains/caps etc number them . everything. even pushrods lifters etc etc

etc. will save you grief in the long run.
 
moparlover said:
beware ebay stuff. some is ok some is trash. 50/50 chance. just get the kb's

but first... before you get pistons

i'd get the block over to a machine shop get it tanked / bores cleaned up /checked

new gasket kit. felpro. you dont want a leaky pete

have shop check cam / main / rod bearings

new oil pump for sure.

take lots of pics, as you disassemble keep all things ordered. rods/mains/caps etc number them . everything. even pushrods lifters etc etc

etc. will save you grief in the long run.
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The engine is in fact going to a local machine shop for sure - You need to get pistons before boring the block to bore to the piston diameter and .030" pistons will be ordered after Xmas sometime - the crank needs turned as well - most small parts will be replaced especially pushrods for the added spring pressure.

No this is not my first rodeo with a motor.. I built a 350 crank hp Ford 302 so this should be a heavier walk in the park haha - I built one other 383 but sold it before finishing it

I usually let the machine shop grind the crank/rods and buy the correct bearings as well so I save myself money and time
 
Go with the 1.6 rockers, just make sure the pushrods clear in the head, dont worry about spending much time on the ports, clean out any casting slag though, but i would clean up/ blend the bowl area, thats where all the low and mid lift flow will come from, your intake and headers will be fine, but i would go with a different converter, the stock will work but a new 3000 converter with your 3.23s will make for a much more fun ride.

Fwiw dad had a bone stock 1965 383, 8.5:1 compression, stock heads, with a mp 528 solid cam, 1 3/4 headers, street dominator intake with an 850 holley that went 12.65 In a 3500lb b body with 4.56 gears, those little 383s are runners!
 
fratzog lover said:
Hooray for another 383 finding a new life. Someone will post to talk you into a 440 build in 3...2...1...
Click to expand...

LOL! yeah the 383's are overlooked for street cars. I have owned many 383 cars and built right they can make some serious power. Especially in a light car.
 
twayne24365 said:
Go with the 1.6 rockers, just make sure the pushrods clear in the head, dont worry about spending much time on the ports, clean out any casting slag though, but i would clean up/ blend the bowl area, thats where all the low and mid lift flow will come from, your intake and headers will be fine, but i would go with a different converter, the stock will work but a new 3000 converter with your 3.23s will make for a much more fun ride.

Fwiw dad had a bone stock 1965 383, 8.5:1 compression, stock heads, with a mp 528 solid cam, 1 3/4 headers, street dominator intake with an 850 holley that went 12.65 In a 3500lb b body with 4.56 gears, those little 383s are runners!
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I could probably choose a better cam if going with a 2,500-3,000 stall could I not?
 
zac_F71 said:
I could probably choose a better cam if going with a 2,500-3,000 stall could I not?
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You sure could, im a big fan of solid cams, alot of people say they require maintenince but ive lashed the valves and ran them over a year, checked them and the lash was still on the money, but even if you wanted to stay hydralic there are some rel nice cams in the .510 to .525 lift range with a touch more duration than the comp xe268, that would thrive with a lottle more converter
 
twayne24365 said:
You sure could, im a big fan of solid cams, alot of people say they require maintenince but ive lashed the valves and ran them over a year, checked them and the lash was still on the money, but even if you wanted to stay hydralic there are some rel nice cams in the .510 to .525 lift range with a touch more duration than the comp xe268, that would thrive with a lottle more converter
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Thats basically what I'm doing with my build . My Howards Cam Has a 224/234 @.050 Dur with 518/543 lift. Neat thing is that it has a 112 LSA. Will use a 2600 Stahl. with 323's
 
I would not run "unknown valve springs" Buy the springs to match the cam.I also would run a high pressure oil pump and Milodon center sump 7 1/2 oil pan.
 
68383GTS said:
I would not run "unknown valve springs" Buy the springs to match the cam.I also would run a high pressure oil pump and Milodon center sump 7 1/2 oil pan.
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I have a C body oil pan. I plan to have the springs spec'd and setup by the machine shop when the heads are getting cleaned up- they're dual springs and will be better than stock one's, plus the guy I got the heads from was running them with a decent Comp cam so they should be more than enough for this build and I got the heads for $60 so I'm not out anything running them - new springs are $150+ you know..

I don't want to sink a ton of money into the 346 heads as I want to go with aluminum heads by winter 2015
 
68383GTS said:
I would not run "unknown valve springs" Buy the springs to match the cam.I also would run a high pressure oil pump and Milodon center sump 7 1/2 oil pan.
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X2, look at some of the lunati voodoo series cams, they have kits with cam, lifters, springs, retainers, locks, and timing chain and are pretty affordable, i know alot of guys say lunati makes good cams, i know im gonna run one in my 440 build, be worth it to check them out anyway
 
Voodoo cam line is a good choice. Hughes has a 219/228 .489/.524 hydraulic, not crazy on duration, good b block street cam.
 
gilberttitan08 said:
383's are cute.
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:D



zac_F71 said:
Edelbrock RPM intake w/ 1" open spacer (best of both worlds) - possibly a little porting on this as well

Also would 3" exhaust net any real gains over 2.5" even with the same Dynomax mufflers (straight thru Ultraflow oval mufflers)
Click to expand...


Your logic about the spacer would seem right in theory. I've played with that intake in a big block mopar on the dyno. I tried several spacers. Best one was to use an HVH super sucker 1" spacer. It makes 10-15hp and similar tq.

I run 3" car seems to like it and it's quieter and deeper sounding. If you are going to spend money on an exhaust just go 3". If you already have the exhaust a 2.5" would be fine for your combo.
 
roccodart440 said:
:D






Your logic about the spacer would seem right in theory. I've played with that intake in a big block mopar on the dyno. I tried several spacers. Best one was to use an HVH super sucker 1" spacer. It makes 10-15hp and similar tq.

I run 3" car seems to like it and it's quieter and deeper sounding. If you are going to spend money on an exhaust just go 3". If you already have the exhaust a 2.5" would be fine for your combo.
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I seen a video about 3 years ago about testing intakes on a SBC383 and the Edelbrock air gap + a 1" open spacer was within 5hp of a Victor Jr (single plane) and no spacer - but the RPM made more power below 3,500rpm plus better street cruising manners

And I believe that to be true as I did that on my head/cam/intake Ford 306 that made 304hp/294tq/ at the wheels through a VS750 (over carb'd) - it was faster with a 650DP (that's around 350hp/350tq at the crank)

Next pay check I am ordering the exhaust, fuel tank kit, and am debating on the Summit 3" kit w/o mufflers - the only reason why I want to run the 2.5" is cause I don't know if the 3" tailpipes will fit between the fuel tank and leaf springs..
 
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