Need advice help.

I did ask this on my build page but received not hits so I'll ask it here.

Just a quick question about disc brake conversions. I've seen the sticky and get the concept but have a few more questions.
71 > 73-76 disc
The parts I have so far are:
Spindles *2
Backing plates *2
Valve *1
I'll buy the calipers pads lines and rotors from the part store.
I still need to find some upper control arms.
I'm using a 1973 direct connection BB k frame with spool mount engine mounts.
My questions are. Do I now need to buy a new steering box? If so will it mate with my steering colum? I'm guessing I'll need the 73 pitman? Is there anything else I'm missing here? A straight swap would have been txt book but seeing how I'm pulling the 71 /6 k frame and installing the 73 DC big block spool mount k frame things may/are different now.
Advice? Thoughts? help
List of what I'll need-

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Backing plates? If you mean splash shields then those are optional. Modern cars do not use splash shields. If you leave them off it is less unsprung weight. They may actually hold-in heat more than they dissipate, I don't know.

You did not mention caliper mounting brackets. You need those plus the mounting bolts.

I have a 73-76 spool mount K in my my 68 and this is what I did:

Your present steering box will work fine. For some reason the 3 mounting bolts like to loosen up so be sure they are torqued correctly.

I used the 68 center link, pitman arm, and idler arm with the newer K. You cannot mix 73-76 parts with 67-72 because the taper on the center link is different. One style has the idler and pitman mountimg from the underside of the center link and the other style has the idler/pitman entering from the top. I don't know for sure if using 73-76 lower ball joint/steering arms with the 67-72 center link junk affect the geometry or not. I was pressed for time right before the Nats and did not have a 73-76 centerlink, idler or pitman on hand.

I used 73-76 strut rods with new Moog bushings.

I used the Moog problem solver offset UCA bushings installed such that it gives more caster. Do NOT align the car to the old alignment specs and use the same setting for both sides. I used 2* positive caster, 1/2* negative camber, and about 1/16-" toe-in and the car tracks hands off on the interstates.

Make sure you install new LCA bushings while you have them out. I used Moog rubber. The only poly I used was the sway bar mounting bushings and end links.

I used the 73-76 sway bar because the mounting is different between the two series. The 73-76 passes through the K. Also the sway bar end link tabs on the LCA's are in different locations.

Buy a MC for a 73-76 Power Disc brake car but run it manually using a manual brake pushrod. Make sure the pushrod is retained in the MC piston. This gives you a 7/8" diameter bore MC and the feel is excellent. No need to run power brakes unless you have some physical limitation. (saves weight and less chance of problems) I have a 110 pound female friend and she has no problem with the manual 73-76 discs and the 16:1 manual steering.

I re-plumbed my brake lines and omitted the safety/distribution block. I used a Wilwood (Summit) adjustable proportioning valve and while I was at it, installed a line-loc. The safety switch turns a warning light on the dash when there is a leak but you'll feel it anyway because the pedal will go down. I had a minor leak after I first made the swap and the reason I knew was because I did not have a 100% rock hard pedal when holding it down.

I collected all the parts before starting the swap. Your results will vary.

Thank you KosmicKuda :color:

KosmicKuda said:

You cannot mix 73-76 parts with 67-72 because the taper on the center link is different. One style has the idler and pitman mountimg from the underside of the center link and the other style has the idler/pitman entering from the top. I don't know for sure if using 73-76 lower ball joint/steering arms with the 67-72 center link junk affect the geometry or not. I was pressed for time right before the Nats and did not have a 73-76 centerlink, idler or pitman on hand.I.

Click to expand...

To confuse this issue, it's not strictly a matter of "year."

There are only 4 parts in this which must "match."

The whole deal is caused by the change in larger spline / later model steering boxes

So the steering box spline must of course match the pitman

The idler, pitman, box, and center link all must match.

I actually was running a late K with early pitman, link, and idler on my 67, and when it goes together it will have a large spline power box so the "new build" will have the later pitman, idler, and center link. This does not affect geometry so far as I know. Many guys have swapped lower arms early to late as well as lower ball joints. (steering arms)



Some more on this

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=236925

Short version. You can use the steering components you have now if you swap the complete package, steering box, Pitman arm, center link, idler arm, tie rods, onto your '73 K member. You will also need '73 up lower ball joints for disc brake cars. You do not need new upper control arms if you get Dr. Diffs upper ball joint adaptors available here http://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapter.html Hope this helps...

Another fly in the ointment is your lower control arms to sway bar combo, if you use a factory anti-sway bar, so there is I guess about 4 possibilities

1...No sway bar, in which case the LCA can be from any year 67 / later

2...Aftermarket bar, which will depend on what you buy

3...Early 72 / earlier bar requires different LCAs

4..."Through the K" 73 / later bar requires later LCAs or fabricate as necessary

Wow this gets involved. I do have the backing plates, spindles bb k frame from the 73-76 car. So I'm able to retain my gearbox use same pitman/idler. Also I need to change out the uppers and can reuse my lowers. Wow lost. I'll study this a little better afte I finish my to doubles. It's all French right now.

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