1968 barracuda suspension necessities

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BIG-B-Barracuda

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hello guys.

i have a 1968 big block barracuda (440) drums rear disk brakes in the front and its the big bolt patter. i currently have the rally wheels 14 in the front with 215/70/14 tires and in the rear 2??/??/15 sorry i forget.

MY car feels like a boat right now (in water) so i am looking to Redo the suspension front shocks (regular NEW) rear gas shocks and i am looking to get the the SUPER STOCK Leaf springs. and replace some bushings. (FRONT BUMP STOPS, sway bar bushings & end links, upper control ball joints.)

reason for the upper control ball joints is that my driver tire is slightly inverted up top.

OKAY, SO MY WHOLE THING HERE IS THAT I AM LOOKING TO GET SOME ADVICE FROM THE EXPERTS ON WHAT TYPE OF ISSUES I MIGHT RUN INTO OR WHAT ELSE I MIGHT NEED. FOR EXAMPLE. (WHAT OTHER BUSHINGS I MIGHT NEED. OR IF I MIGHT NEED CERTAIN THINGS MACHINE PRESSED oR IF sUPER STOCK LEAF SPRINGS WILL FIT WITHOUT HASSLE ON MY BARRACUDA OR THINGS I MIHGT NEED TO INSTALL SUCH SPRINGS ETC... )

not sure if i need to replace or get new bushing, straps. etc.. on the leaf springs.. and so on..


:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:


THANK YOU.

you guys are the best cant stress that enough. :cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
adding these SS springs would require me to get taller? shocks anyone know what type of shocks would work or if this is true?
 
If any part of the front end needs to be rebuilt, rebuild it all with quality parts (MUST be made in North America). Add 1" torsion bars and a front sway bar. I can't really answer the SS spring question, but for handling road race springs would be a much better choice.
 
In most cases its not the upper ball joint that lets the top of the tire lean in. Its the lower arm bushing and ball joint that lets the bottom of the tire out. Only looks like the top is in. As stated above, Plan on replacing all of it to cure tire wear problems. Sway bar and high dollar shocks will have more effect on handling.
 
Use moog offset pn 7103 upper control arm bushing installed to get as much positive caster as possible up to 3 degrees positive. DO NOT install per the instructions in the box!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=130483

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http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html

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Thanks for the info so far, does anyone know which or how many if not all busings are machine pressesed or by hand?
 
Upper control arm bushings can be pressed in using a home made tool. Just get a long thick bolt, some sturdy washers and a nut and press them in yourself.

Lower control arm bushings will have to be either pressed out or burned out and then chiseled out. Then the new one needs to be pressed back in. This one has to be done with an actual press.

Strut rod bushings can be pressed on easily with the home made tool.

Upper ball joints are threaded in so don't try and press them.

Lower ball joints are bolted on.

Pitman arm and idler arm will need a puller to remove most likely. Can be had for fairly cheap at Harbor Freight.

Tie rod ends can be removed by a puller or ball joint fork.
 
Upper control arm bushings can be pressed in using a home made tool. Just get a long thick bolt, some sturdy washers and a nut and press them in yourself.

Lower control arm bushings will have to be either pressed out or burned out and then chiseled out. Then the new one needs to be pressed back in. This one has to be done with an actual press.

Strut rod bushings can be pressed on easily with the home made tool.

Upper ball joints are threaded in so don't try and press them.

Lower ball joints are bolted on.

Pitman arm and idler arm will need a puller to remove most likely. Can be had for fairly cheap at Harbor Freight.

Tie rod ends can be removed by a puller or ball joint fork.

mancini racing has a complete kit w/ everything u might need:cheers:
 
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