...............any roofers out there..........

-
O

oldkimmer

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
24,081
Reaction score
8,276
Location
Kindersley, Saskatchewan,
................We moved a porch up against our trailer.....not much pitch to the trailers roof and even less to the porch........we tinned the roof of the porch with the tin that has a raised rib every 8 inches or so..............the ribs fit under the rain gutter on the trailer, which means theres high and low spots...........so here is my question...how in the hell do we install flashing to follow the contour of the tin.......any and all replys appreciated......thanks ...........kim.............
 
Im not a 'roofer', but have done some. I tinned my shed roof (very low pitch). I put a ridge vent on it. The gap under the vent sounds like a similar situation to what you are describing. I used foam rubber strips that are pre-cut to the contour of the tin. I think most places that sell the metal have the matched fill strips. I caulked them in place,and completely covered the exposed side with caulk. If possible, I would flash behind the gutter, and extend down over the tin - especially if it is ever to be a 'finished' room. As long as it all fits tight and gutter is solid, you can probably get a good seal under it.
Keith
 
Usually the roofing manufacturer will make such flashings for their particular rib design. Check with your roofing supplier, should be no problem
 
The side wall flashing does not match it is flat but you can get what they call closure strips there are inside and outside they go between the flashing and metal .
Hope that makes sense .
I'm not a roofer per say but I am a general contractor and have done a fair amount of metal roofs and buildings .
Jim
 
Kim (photos?) If I understand, you have a simple "lean to" unit up against the flat side of the trailer?

If so, I would not worry about "high and low" between the ribs of the lean-to. I'd simply get some flat flashing (or sheet metal from local shop) bent to as close to the angle between the two.


Screw the flashing right to the trailer, and the tops of a few of the ribs. Get say, 8" or so overlap on the trailer side so that any rain "splash" back under will run back out.
 
The way i do it is cut the flashing to match the tin then caulk the seam. Yep get the tin snips out!!!
 
66 Dartman said:
The way i do it is cut the flashing to match the tin then caulk the seam. Yep get the tin snips out!!!
Click to expand...

Bingo ^^^ , did you tear down that old wood entry ? If you want to get real detailed cut 2 strips of roofing copper 1 just cut to stand and follow the contours of the ribs and the other put a 90 the full length about an inch and then cut at the bends needed to lay flat then solder the flat vertical in front of the 90 bend , thats the old fashioned way that lasts ,install with the flat vert piece behind the siding if possible or at least back from what little roof overhang you have , then caulk with black jack or some other butyl based roofing sealant .
 
............Thanks for the replys guys.............i'll get some pics Saturday or sunday, I'll have to email them to 1 of u guys so u can post them for me..........thanks muchly........kim...........
 
The way we do it is with closures that match the panels. A piece of flashing goes up under the trailer gutter and is bent to match the pitch of the porch roof. The closures are installed about 2 inches from the end of the flashing or to where they can lay on a solid piece of wood and the flashing is screwed down to the high point of the ridges. Personally I like to have my flashing folded back on itself to give it a stiffer ridge.

Below is a sample of the closures but you would need to locate the ones that match your panels. These are call R panel and they are what is most common in my area.
 

Attachments

  • closure.JPG
    24.6 KB · Views: 137
Here are Kim's pics.....Sorry for the delay :)
 

Attachments

  • Kims pics 1 (Small).JPG
    37.5 KB · Views: 118
  • Kims pics 2 (Small).JPG
    50.4 KB · Views: 109
  • Kims pics 3 (Small).JPG
    39 KB · Views: 104
  • Kims pics 4 (Small).JPG
    42.3 KB · Views: 100
That makes sense now....I was wondering :scratch:

Thanks Del & hope somebody can steer Kim in the right direction to fix it !! I'm NO help LOL :)
 
oldkimmer said:
...............This pink stuff is expanding foam............kim.....
Click to expand...

What I posted above is the correct seal and the correct method of what we use with that panel. Don't tell anyone but I own and manage a mobile home park. I would remove the drip edge and loosen the mobile home roof where the room is, insert my flashing under the roof, refasten the roof and then use butyl tape to seal the gutter. You would want it to run down to you R panel and then a sharp corner so it would almost be a L shape. As flat as that roof is I would think the flashing would come out on to your R panel roof at least a foot. I would install two separate rows of outside seals like I posted above.


Below is a picture of a roll of butyl tape. It is the same thing your drip edge and your windows were originally installed with. They also sometimes use it between the seams of the R panels if they are worried about water penetration happening. I buy it by the case.
 

Attachments

  • $_12.JPG
    39 KB · Views: 110
I would go with Mr Lahey's first suggestion , decking it with OSB will leave air voids that can lead to sweating between the metal and the OSB creating new problems .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top