360 timing

-Thx Rusty; and yes at 21* initial, and 900rpm, its pulling 13.5 in Hg, so there appears to be a small cam in it.Im guessing in the range of 220/225*@.050,give or take.If you check out the very early posts, you can see where he got the 13.5c/r number,off a "projected build sheet",similar to a desk-top-dyno; not an actual built or dyno sheet.The projected compression was on that sheet too; at 239psi.In my questioning, I have totally ignored that spec sheet, judged it to be just a study.
-Say Rusty; since youre tuned in,would you have a recommendation as to a fully adjustable street dist with a v-can, for Ted,that is easy, EASY, to adjust ?
-Now Ted, yes the missing v-can,and hence missing off-idle timing can manifest as a hesitation. However with 21* initial and the fast initial rate of advance in the dist.I doubt it is the root cause of your stumble.Id be more inclined to look to the accelerator pump circuit.And the missing can will very definitely affect the warm-up. The cold engine likes a ton of advance which it can only get by combing all three advance systems. If you were to watch on a scanner, how much advance manufacturers program into modern EFI systems, to get them to cold-idle at sub 1000rpm and drive away,you might be amazed.
-Also,I strongly urge you not to install that can together with 21*initial.The interplay between those two is bound to create rattle. A compromise might be to reset the initial to something like 12* and slow down the v-can(by adjusting the nipple screw).The roadtest will tell you how to proceed.Just remember not to get into Rattle, as power timing will be excessive, at 12*+31*=43*. Stay below the 'Rattle threshold".
-Also bear in mind that the money you spend on the can will be forfeited if you buy an aftermarket dizzy.