front disk brakes

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alaskadartgt

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Looking to add disk brake to just the front of my 1966 dart gt. i have decided to
stick with the original 5x4 lug pattern. Any suggestions on what company to go with.
 
Search the site for "Scarebird". You will find a bunch of threads about them asking the same questions. In those threads, you will find a couple other recommendations of disk brake setups, but I think the Scarebird is the cheapest, and also arguably one of the easiest to get parts for long-term if that is a consideration.
 
Looking to add disk brake to just the front of my 1966 dart gt. i have decided to
stick with the original 5x4 lug pattern. Any suggestions on what company to go with.

so i am pretty convinced that i want to go with the scare bird conversion. and i have also
pretty much decided to stick with manual brakes. scare bird states that i should use
a 72-75 disc brake master. so that will replace my single res. brake master with a double
res. master. then i just have to add a prop valve to the line going to the rear. does this
sound correct? am i on the right track?


also.....not to sound like a total idiot but.... how do i "thank" someone on here?
 
Right on track. Read the Scarebird site on which 14" wheels clear their caliper (w/ slight grinding). You can get new 17" wheels in SBP.

Many here use a later aluminum MC w/ 2-to-4 bolt adapter plate ($30 ebay). I did since I don't like rusty, heavy cast-iron. You will prefer an MC w/ a small bore (15/16" or 7/8"D) for manual disks.
 
I used the SSBC A153 kit and it worked well for me. It is an improvement over the drums but was not a dramatic improvement. I do notice a lot less brake fade though. SSBC bought the Kelsey Hayes design and the calipers are very similar if not identical to the 4 piston type used on 70-72 small bolt pattern hub. I wanted to keep the small bolt pattern but can convert to big bolt if I decide to later. It was relatively easy to do and I learned a lot about bleeding a master cylinder and brake lines which I had never done before. I tried to use the little plastic tubes that came with the kit to bleed the master but found it more efficient to use metal brake lines with fittings and curve them into the bowls of the Master. I had to pump the master about 100 times before all the bubbles were gone. I bought a motive power bleeder from summit and bled all four wheels 2 times and it was good. I am still learning auto mechanics at 62 yrs old and enjoy improving my skills.
 
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