Oil Pressure gauge freaking out

-
You sure the line is free of dirt or obstructions?

I'd pull the gauge and line off and blow them out with brake clean
 
So I changed the gauge with one i knew was working. The psi stays steady until the car gets to operating temp (180) then starts to twitch and then flutter like crazy. I also tried my original gauge on another car and it worked fine. Before all of this eveb happened, I cleaned out the line.

So I am lost, cold start psi is steady untul operating temp then it flutters. Could it be the oil? It's 10w-40 zrod and the filter is wix.

What else could it be?
 
I'm thinking pump relief spring or filter drain back valve.

Change the oil filter and see what happens. Easy stuff first.
 
I will try the filter first. The oil needs to be ordered, so it's not an easy buy and fill. I have extra filters and 1/2 qt of oil for the filter. So I will do this and see if I can cut it open too
 
I'm thinking pump relief spring or filter drain back valve.

Change the oil filter and see what happens. Easy stuff first.


What is the drain back valve? Is that what the filter screws onto or what?


If I recall correctly, I don't recall the gauge ever doing this after first break in, so I am stumped
 
I'm thinking pump relief spring or filter drain back valve.

Change the oil filter and see what happens. Easy stuff first.

I don't think that the relief spring moves fast enough to make the gauge "flicker".

I could be wrong, but I would lean more toward the drain back valve.
 
It seems like this is temp related when the engine warms up something is affecting the oil pressure.

Now trying to figure out what could cause that....
 
I don't think that the relief spring moves fast enough to make the gauge "flicker".

I could be wrong, but I would lean more toward the drain back valve.

From the research I have been seeing, I agree with the relief spring, where is the drain back valve located? Would another liquid mixed with the oil cause an issue? Water? Gas? I have great oil pressure just very very erratic readings. I wish I could upload the videos I have some how hmm I will try Facebook then here


Would using the priming rod and drill to raise the oil pressure be the same as the car running?
 
Drain back valve is in the filter, a cheap rubber flap in the inexpensive ones or a ball and spring in the better ones.

From my work experience a "bouncing" needle will be a weak valve spring or valve leaking by.
 
Would using the priming rod and drill to raise the oil pressure be the same as the car running?


I doubt it. Your drill cannot duplicate the rpm range of the engine, more closer to idle.


It can spin the pump enough to get oil to flow, but I don't think that it can spin it to duplicate the whole rpm range that the engine can see.


Also, it seems that your problem also has something to do with the engine warming up. What changes in the oil system or affects the oil system when the engine warms up?


Also if it is temp related, how are you going to get the engine to temp to duplicate the problem while you spin the pump with a priming shaft?
 
I changed the filter, I only use WIX filters. There was no change.. from around cold to 160 the psi varies max 2psi up and down. When it gets above 160-180 then it varies around 10 psi..

Here are the videos:

The first one is in park at 180 degrees at idle [ame]http://youtu.be/jl4-g6vYY9g[/ame]


The next is in park but revving and holding at 3k for 2-3 seconds

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHnq35MfjsA"]Oil pressure - YouTube[/ame]
 
Could the gauge be effected by the vibrations of the car? I know I had a gauge that would jump around if you bumped it.
 
Could the gauge be effected by the vibrations of the car? I know I had a gauge that would jump around if you bumped it.

Maybe? But I just don't recall the gauge being like this during first couple of starts with new engine or like this on last engine hmmmm
 
That would not even be on my radar. Next.
 
See if you can fine tune the engine and smooth the idle some.

How did you adjust the carb?

Vacuum gauge?

If you are running a holley make sure the air bleeds are clean
 
New motor, didn't do it before and I don't know what changed, I'd be scared too.

For me it wouldn't be a big deal to pull the pan and remove/inspect change pump.

I'd be looking at valve train covers off and running. If it had a lifter uncovering the groove it may do the same thing, but I don't know how to check without Intake removal.

If you do pull the pump check the oil block off plug is tight and in at the correct depth.

I'm really scratching the head on this one.
 
-
Back
Top