1973 Scamp Rearend question

A Jeep Cherokee rear from a 4.0 is usually a Chrysler 8.25 rear end. The Grand Cherokee usually comes with a Dana rear. Avoid the Dana - Jeep people swap them out for the 8.25. The width is just a little wider - works fine on my 68 Barracuda. You will have to cut off the spring perches and move them from the top of the housing to the bottom. You can use the shock plates from the 7.25 with modifications, but I got 8 3/4 shock plates. You will also need to get u-bolts to fit the larger axle tubes. The Cherokee u-bolts will work.
Some of the Jeeps have Trac-Lock carriers with 3.55's. A lot of the Dakotas and Durangos also have the Trac-Lock.

Note: The Dakota and Durango rears are too wide! Most of them are 6-lug.

The rear that I used was from a 2000 Cherokee - 29 spline. Get the 96 or older 27 spline. I got a 92 Dakota 3.55 Trac-Lock for $50, so I had to change out the 29 spline axles for 27 spline. 91 Cherokee axles were $60 at Pull-a-Part. I kept the 9 inch drums on the rear. They are wider than the old a-body 9" a-body drums. Also, your e-brake cables will fit right into the new rear. Grand Cherokee disc brakes will fit on this rear if you choose to change them later. There are some really good threads on the forum for the disc upgrade. Oh, you will need to change out the driveshaft for a shorter one. I used a 78 Aspen that was on an 8.25 automatic.

Or, you can go with the Mustang, Ranger, or Explorer rear. I chose to keep mine Mopar.

I researched this for a long time. I bought an Explorer rear and ended up selling it. You might find a later model 8.25 that you don't have to change out the spring perches. I think some of the Diplomat style body will fit.

After all of my tongue-wagging, the bottom line is this: The only true bolt-in rear end for your car has to come from an a-body.

BTW - That looks more like a 8.25 than a 7.25! Measure the axle tube diameter for sure.