tti header clearance problem

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22dog22

22dog22

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just finished install coated tti headers in my 69 cuda small block have the engine set exactly where tti states it should be having problem with the drive side inner tie rod hitting the one header tube, took a measurement on the driver side area from the tie rod to the ground and also measured the same area on the passenger side and it is about 1/4 higher on the driver side over the passenger side I wanted to know if any one could take a measurement on there car to see if they are the same or there is a difference , I do not know what else to do to fine tune to get the clearance needed, short of putting a dent in the tube to get the clearance needed any thoughts???
 

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I have a spool mount car but would like to offer a suggestion.
Do you think that shimming the motor mount 1/4" would give you enough clearance?
(Not sure if putting it on the bottom or top would be best.)

Are the motor mounts new or "good". Old mounts can get soft or manufacturers can have slightly different thicknesses. Can the motor be moved around a bit with sandwich mounts like it can be with spool mounts? There can be production tolerance differences as well as a possible "tweak" somewhere after 45 years.

If I'm visualizing this correctly, a torsion bar adjustment would change the inner tie rod to ground measurement, but not affect the header clearance problem.
 
hi, thanks for the input when I took my measurements I have the car on jack stands, I already added shims to raise the engine to the correct height that tti calls for from the center of the crankbolt it should be 5 1/4 I have 5 1/2 I have new motor mounts the car. has any one run into this problem? how did you fix it??
 
Check for loose steering box mount bolts, pitman arm nut torque also needs to be correct. Look over the welds on the steering box mount area for cracks. Shimming the top of the steering box mount surface will move the tie rod down and away from the header tube.
You can also cut the excess off the tie rod stud and install a shorter castle nut; secured with safety wire instead of cotter pin.
 
I wonder if there might be enough "play" with everything loosened up to be able to pull the engine & trans back a bit - motor mounts and trans mount. (As long as there is enough room so the trans yoke doesn't come close to bottoming out.)
 
thanks for some of the ideas, I already tried to loose the engine cradle and used a come a long to tried to move it back, did not help, I also thought about shimming the power steering box to see if that helps also I like the idea of a shorter castle nut will give them all a try and let you know how it works out thanks again
 
I wouldn't attempt to shim the steering gear where it mounts to the K. Even where the steering gear is mounted right and tight it can work loose. Flat washers between there is asking for trouble in my opinion.
Some of those other suggests could work.
 
I had the exact problem with my 68 dart. Everything was installed exactly as TTI states and I used new motor mounts. I shimmed my motor up maybe another 1/4" to get just a bit more clearance. My only solution (just short of a BFH as stated above) was to grind down the castle nut just enough to get the clearance. I have about 700 miles on it since the install and I still have the clearance. Good luck.
 
pntastar69 said:
BFH like everybody else uses. Dent it.
Click to expand...

That would be the last thing I would want to do to these pricey tubes!

Grinding the nut and stud is not a bad idea, but last resort.

Now I have a few dumb questions.

Is that steering arm a fast ratio arm?
Can the arm be moved downward on the steering boxes shaft?
Spaced downward with a washer?
Is the ride height high enough?
Factory tire size installed?
 
RedFish said:
I wouldn't attempt to shim the steering gear where it mounts to the K. Even where the steering gear is mounted right and tight it can work loose. Flat washers between there is asking for trouble in my opinion.
Some of those other suggests could work.
Click to expand...

When I mentioned shimming steering box I should have said to use angled shims. Rear axle shims work great.
 
Question: Did you call Sam or Mike at TTI and discuss the issue with them? If not this might be the best place to start.
 
You can have your crank centerline in the correct position and still have an engine leaning a little either direction. In your case it may be low on the drivers side.

I'd shim the driver side mount and see if it clears up your issue.
 
lots of good information, I did shim up the engine on both sides maybe I should just shim the driver side up and leave the rt side where it was, I may also call tti as stated.
 
Called spoke with sam at tti, explained my problem he tells me that he has heard of a tight fit on the rt side the passenger side but not the driver side lt, he states to loosen the motor mounts at the engine side of mount upper and the frame lower side nuts on both sides and move the engine back he states you should be able to get a least 1/4 space then as needed i will give that a try.
 
My header issue on my 68 Dart was on the passenger side. .. A nice shim fixed the issue. I presume over time the K frame tolerance is not perfect from factory. I guess the headers are designed from manufacturer specs thus a tired K frame might cause not a perfect alignment for the header tube...
Lots of torque from the motor over time sure aides the changes..

I used www.engine-swaps.com shim kits... it comes with a nice variety
 
dog, another thing to think about, is there room on the passenger side inner tie rod to move the idler arm up enough to give you clearance. The drag link should be level...
 
RedFish said:
I wouldn't attempt to shim the steering gear where it mounts to the K. Even where the steering gear is mounted right and tight it can work loose. Flat washers between there is asking for trouble in my opinion.
Some of those other suggests could work.
Click to expand...

Shimming the steering box is discussed in the Mopar Performance manual and is used often to solve problems.
 
was able to work on this problem, did as Sam at TTI stated to loosen all the nuts on both motor mounts and realign the engine on the driver side, I loosed them and use a come a long and pulled back on the driver side on engine it looked good with nice gap about 1/4 tighten the mounts up took off the come a long and gap closed up a bit but is about 2 times what it was before but I think it is still tight, I spoke with a buddy he states to take a socket and use a big c-clamp to but a nice dimple in tube not a dent I think I will do that just to give me a little more wiggle room
 

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i'd bent the pittman arm down a tad before i'd dimple the header.that will also level your center link.
 
So what is the condition of your trans mount? if it's old can squished out, it will lower the headers.

Same for motor mounts. That thicker truck mount on the drivers side would do the trick too.
 
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