Torsion bars
So what in the heck does reclocking mean?
The ends of the T-bars are hexagonal shapes, that fit and lock into the chassis sockets and the lower control arm sockets. Looking from the end of the t-bars, these hexagonal shapes have to be in a certain orientation to each other on the front and rear ends of the bars to fit into the chassis right. There were some out there that were not made right and the design was 're-clocked' to get them right.
This is also the reason for the left and right PN's in the smaller diameter T-bars; they have a to be different from one side to the other for them to fit right for the small T-bars (that twist more when they get loaded). Larger T-bars don't twist as much when loaded and so can be the same on each side and still fit.
Stiff? It is all a matter of personal preference AND the application. T-Bars (and springs of any type) CAN be too stiff on roads that have rough surfaces and have large bumps; the shock/spring combo that matches will not be compliant on rough roads. That is why the OP needs to help with info. And the guys who like the 1" bars really would help to say what kind of roads they drive on and how, where they drive their cars, etc. ... IMO. It is like cams and compression raio : there are different characteristics and uses of different grinds; an HP cam won't typically be good for torque applications. And 11:1 CR may be great on the strip with the rigth fuels but would be unusable in general driving.