Trouble keeping bleeder hose connected
A jar with two 1/8" copper tubed epoxied into the lid works just as well for keeping air out. One tube extends to about 1/4" of the bottom of the jar. The other tube extends only about a 1/4" into the jar. Fill the jar with brake fluid (used is fine) until the end of the long tube is submerged. Use some clear tubing to connect that tube to the bleed nipple. Use some vacuum tubing to connect the short tube to engine manifold vacuum. Turn on engine, open bleed nipple.
I've used grease to seal the bleed nipple threads in the past, but it's always bothered me to be putting petroleum product on brake parts since brake part rubber doesn't play well with petroleum products. This last go-round I tried dielectric grease with mixed results. The rear calipers worked well this way. The bleed nipples in the front calipers are so sloppy in the threads that I think teflon tape is called for. The brake fluid acted as a solvent on the dielectric grease.
A jar with two 1/8" copper tubed epoxied into the lid works just as well for keeping air out. One tube extends to about 1/4" of the bottom of the jar. The other tube extends only about a 1/4" into the jar. Fill the jar with brake fluid (used is fine) until the end of the long tube is submerged. Use some clear tubing to connect that tube to the bleed nipple. Use some vacuum tubing to connect the short tube to engine manifold vacuum. Turn on engine, open bleed nipple.
I've used grease to seal the bleed nipple threads in the past, but it's always bothered me to be putting petroleum product on brake parts since brake part rubber doesn't play well with petroleum products. This last go-round I tried dielectric grease with mixed results. The rear calipers worked well this way. The bleed nipples in the front calipers are so sloppy in the threads that I think teflon tape is called for. The brake fluid acted as a solvent on the dielectric grease.