100 horse shot of nos for 440?

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74slnt6

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ok so heres what im thinking about. I want to use a nos sniper 100 horse shot on my 440. my main concern is will my engine safely take a 100 horse shot? my motor is...

1968 440 casting - stock rotating assembly
stock crank
stock rods
trw stock replacement pistons
between 10.5 and 11 compression
stealth heads
750 barry grant worked out to something about 970 cfm
mopar purple .484 cam

will it be ok to use a 100 horse shot with my setup? i also dont get too crazy about rpms, i shifted it at 5000, and probably wouldnt ever take it too far above 5500, if that makes any difference.
 
You can use a 500 horse pro shot fogger on it as long as you make DAMN sure it does not run lean. That is what kills a nitrous motor. But to directly answer your question, 100 HP is fine. Again, don't lean it out. You see all them nitrous boys leanin it out to make it run as fast as possible. That's a mistake. I always run a nitrous motor rich. If it is built to take it with good rod bolts and premium rings and a steel crank, it will live with stock cast pistons as long as it doesn't lean out. Fat man. Real fat.
 
Stroker, BTW nice mug shot of you lol.

Ok, i disagree on your nitrous theory, you NEVER want to run too rich or too lean when running N2o, you will see guys leaning out for MAX power, but you also have to realize they play with this **** all the time, they have fancy programmers & timing devices, there still playing rushin-rulet but they have deep pockets, for the adverage racer you want good fuel supply & good ign. Once you get your combo running the best it will NA, then you add the nitrous & pull timing accordingly, change heat range & gap if needed. Running too rich on the bottle is just as bad as running to lean, your looking for a good "crisp" run.

74slnt6, Do you have a system yet, if not i'm selling a like new sniper system that i bought not to long ago for a hell of a deal, comes with a new bottle heater.

I would skip the 100 & start off with the 125 pills, pull about 4* timing, what fuel system are you running? Its very important, also maintaning 950 psi on the bottle
 
JoeDust451 said:
Stroker, BTW nice mug shot of you lol.

Ok, i disagree on your nitrous theory, you NEVER want to run too rich or too lean when running N2o, you will see guys leaning out for MAX power, but you also have to realize they play with this **** all the time, they have fancy programmers & timing devices, there still playing rushin-rulet but they have deep pockets, for the adverage racer you want good fuel supply & good ign. Once you get your combo running the best it will NA, then you add the nitrous & pull timing accordingly, change heat range & gap if needed. Running too rich on the bottle is just as bad as running to lean, your looking for a good "crisp" run.

74slnt6, Do you have a system yet, if not i'm selling a like new sniper system that i bought not to long ago for a hell of a deal, comes with a new bottle heater.

I would skip the 100 & start off with the 125 pills, pull about 4* timing, what fuel system are you running? Its very important, also maintaning 950 psi on the bottle
Click to expand...

I wasn't sayin TOO rich. I know it came off like that. I was just tryin to say lean is the last thing you want.

oh and tanks foe da compliment mah.
 
I love nitrous. I would recommend you get a air fuel ratio gauge. I was running a 150 shot on a stock bottom end modern hemi. Ran countless bottles through it. And made sure my air ruel ratio was in the mid 11's that was after leaning it out some from a low 10 AFR. I picked up 2 tenths after I leaned it out, but it was still on the rich side for safety. You will need more than a basic kit. You will need a heater, bottle pressure gauge, fuel pressure safety switch, and more things I'm forgetting I'm sure. But those 3 are the minimum you need to add to a kit out of a box.
 
I gotta high school friend I still keep in touch with. We both had the fastest cars back in school. Dam that was fun and a long time ago. Anyway now he's a Rustang guy. He hangs with all them boys. I had Mopars then, I got Mopars now. Well, one anyway. A mutual friend of ours had a 87 I think Rustang a few years back with the stock 150,000 plus mile bottom end, cept for the cam. Even ran the original lifters. He had a Vortec R trim blower on it with a small shot (125 HP comes to mind) of spray. I don't remember exactly how fast it was, but he was runnin 10s. What was so weird was, he built an all out 347 stroker, pulled the 5.0, did the swap put the blower and spray and all back on it and it slowed down. he never got that car to run that fast again. he ended up sellin it. Now, those Rustang engines had forged piston bottom ends in some years and his original was one, but still, cast pistons can be run with spray if you're careful. If I was buildin one from the ground up though, I'd go forged. Or as they say foeged.
 
i sprayed 150 on my 340 for a long time. No problems. As everyone said make sure the fuel system is capable of providing enough gas. I used a holley blue fuel pump with 3/8 pick up and line
 
The kit tune ups are fat to start with. Any tune up where the fuel jet is larger than the n2o jet is dead rich.

Good fuel supply, pressure and volume, and maybe pull a little timing and you should be OK.

Learn to read plugs. If you start change the tuneups, it's a critical skill to have.
 
I agree with everyone. I ran 275 shot on my old tired stock bottem end 400 for 3 years. I also ran a 300 shot on my 440 for 3 years and I never had any issues. I wouldn't bother with a sniper kit though. I would look for a cheater set up, then you can jet bigger in the future. 100 shot really isn't much.
 
Should have no problem with a 150 shot on a 440 engine. That is only .34 horespower per cube added. My 170 slant is running 125 shot, and that is .74 horsepower per cube added. I have a totally stock short block, except for cam. This engine has had about 200 lbs of nitrous through it. One of my old engines with forged pistons, had more then 400 lbs of nitrous through it at a 150 shot. Ate a couple of pistons when I got greedy and went to a 175 shot, and missed the tune up.
 
Actually 950 pound bottle pressure is just what most people use because thats what most company's test at.

You can use any n2o bottle pound as a starting point.
When you start to blueprint a NOS system it's important to have n2o pressure constant threw run out the run.
Thats why some systems require 2 bottles.s
Meaning you have to flow your plate on the bench to find out if your bottle has enough fluid to make your pass and if your pump will keep up for the pass.

I know for 100 hp you don't need to do this,just info.

Also you should have a low fuel shut down switch and a secondary n2o soleniod inline of the primary one for safety.

Steve Johnson of Induction Solutions has great blueprinted kits.
He's 4-5 in a row against The Sheiks Pro-Mod cars
 
For every 50hp of N2O pull 2* of timing(6* for 125hp shot to be safe)
Go 2 steps colder for plugs
Low fuel pressure safety shutoff switch
Good fuel supply, you could even run a little higher octane fuel

Cast pistons can take a 100-125hp shot all day as long as you play it safe. To much heat/not enough fuel will melt the pistons
 
my cousin ran 175 shot of nitrous through his 4cyl Ford Focus and clicked off high 12s low 13s all day long....stock motor, no internal work at all. Just an intake, exhaust, and a clutch that wouldnt slip.

a 440 will take 100shot like its not even there. Im not sure how it would work with a mechanical fuel pump, but i know you can run ALLLOOOT of nitrous with a wet kit (injecting fuel and No2 at the same time) tuning tuning tuning my friend.
 
................I ran a cheater kit years ago on a 78 440 that had headers, cam, carb and intake......started at 150 shot, ended up using the 250 shot , probably 100 runs....i used a dedicated fuel supply for the nos.....kim...........
 
Charrlie_S said:
Should have no problem with a 150 shot on a 440 engine. That is only .34 horespower per cube added. My 170 slant is running 125 shot, and that is .74 horsepower per cube added. I have a totally stock short block, except for cam. This engine has had about 200 lbs of nitrous through it. One of my old engines with forged pistons, had more then 400 lbs of nitrous through it at a 150 shot. Ate a couple of pistons when I got greedy and went to a 175 shot, and missed the tune up.
Click to expand...

Update: I'm now up to about a 200-225 shot on my 170 cid slant six engine. Stock short block, except for cam. 12.90 at 101.65 mph in a street legal 3250 lb, 66 Cuda
"ALL BOTTLE, NO THROTTLE" :)
 
what real compression is in the OP's motor? books say 10-1 but is that the real case, did he check it? did he use a 1009 head gasket? that will dictate how much timing needs to be taking out. the less static compression the more timing it needs. the combustion pressure still needs to peak at something like 10* ATDC.
 
To the OP

What intake are you running?

My setup is from NX and they say 150 max on a dual plane.
 
Don't buy the sniper kit. You will instantly want more. Go with a Cheater.

I run a stand alone fuel system as well. Dedicated Fuel Pump, Regulator and lil fuel cell with VP 110 on the hit. You will also need something to retard your timing on the hit.

I have NOS Junky friends that have hit stock internals with 400-450 shot and lived all day long. They are very skilled at NOS Tune Ups and have been at the Juice game since NOS first came on the scene. That is REAL WORLD not BS. It is all in the tune up.
 
you are all right about starting off with a grow into nitrous kit. I started off with one 125hp kit, wow i liked that. then a second 125hp kit, wowsers, I liked that even more. well then I had to add a cheater to it set at 250 horse, holy smoke did that have the *** kicking effect. after all that I made my own 3 stage plate patterned off the big shot, it just had 6 more holes in each spray bar, made more hp per jet pair. the guys a right like said above you just want more since it so easy to do.

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hmmmm 4 year old post and the OP hasn't been back in this thread from initial. :)

Nice effort on Charlie's ride with the slanty.
 
Mad Dart said:
Don't buy the sniper kit. You will instantly want more. Go with a Cheater.

I run a stand alone fuel system as well. Dedicated Fuel Pump, Regulator and lil fuel cell with VP 110 on the hit. You will also need something to retard your timing on the hit.

I have NOS Junky friends that have hit stock internals with 400-450 shot and lived all day long. They are very skilled at NOS Tune Ups and have been at the Juice game since NOS first came on the scene. That is REAL WORLD not BS. It is all in the tune up.
Click to expand...

definitely go with a decent plate style system.


NX's S.A.F.E. system is a great "bolt on" version of what MD Dart is talking about.
 
hey I just saw this popped up had no idea it was mine until about half way through. but at any rate, since I have four years more knowledge at this point and have done some 1/4 mile runs with it I think I have some more intelligible comments.

motor is the same, going to rebuild this winter. 440 .030 over, stock rotating assembly real close to 10.5:1 with the heads I have on it now. I was running a dual plane edelbrock performer when I ran 11.64 all motor. Im thinking ill run a single plane with a rpm range between about 1500-6000. I don't intend to ever rev over 6000, while shifting at 5500. I have a NOS brand 125 plate kit Im going to run in the spring with a freshened motor and tubeless slicks. I'd be hopeful of a possible 10.40 pass. I have never had experience with nitrous before hand, so to be safe I think ill retard the timing from 35* total to 30*, and go through my carb too. I was not planning on running a stand alone fuel system for it, just tapping into the 110 from my cell. I have a high flow mechanical pump now, rated at 125 gph. I will be adding a holley electrical pump for added insurance, and I think around 14 psi of fuel pressure of the line.

car traps now at 5200 going through at 116.4. im hoping I can spray without over revving through the trap. I run 3.55 gears now but have a set of 3.23s if testing proves that I need less gear.

if anyone has any good input for me i'd appreciate it. more so now that im actually sure what I want to do with my car and im not a 16 year old with a hundred different thoughts on possible builds lol.
 
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