another project- another wiring problem!

Readinbg through this, it looks like the coil is not working.

Do this to isolate and test the coil by itself and eliminate everythin but the coil and its spark wire:
1. With the key off, jumper the ballast resistor and remove the points wire from the coil -.
2. Set up a jumper from ground that you can touch momentarily to the coil -. Place the coil spark wire so that the end that normally goes to the distributor is setting about 1/4" from the valve cover.
3. Turn on the ignition to RUN and touch the jumper to the coil - and then remove it; BE SURE TO NOT BE TOUCHING THE JUMPER'S WIRE WHEN YOU ROMOVE IT OR YOU'LL GET A NASTY SHOCK. You should see a good spark at the end of the coil's spark wire each time you touch and then remove the jumper to the coil -. If not, then it is either the coil or the coil's spark wire.

You can test the wire with the resistance function on your meter. Set the meter to the 20k ohm range and measure the wire's resistance end to end while completely out of the car; you should read resistance under 5k and probably lower. It might be OK a shade higher but not much higher. (Plug wire resitance is highly variable for a new wire from brand to brand, so these numbers are necessarily 'typical ballpark' resistances.)

And BTW, when measuring resistance, always set your scale, touch the leads together and confirm that you read very close to 0 ohms, and then untouch them and verify that you see the 'open circuit' reading; this pre-measurement procedure is smart to do every time you make resistance measurements, to verify the meter and your measurement techniques.