another project- another wiring problem!

barbee6043 said

when you say " jumper the ballast" are you saying jump the two wires on each together I guess. that's what I did.
I tested the coil spark wire for resistance , reads 12.5, wire, coil wires out of running cars read like 5.5 for each....
I took coil spark wire off the running dart in our last episode, and a new coil that was the one on that same running dart, I get spark when I hit the coil --, but no spark at the valve cover. and that's with the coil spark wire off the 65dart that reads like 5 ohm......
I await your verdict!!!

Click to expand...

'Jumper the ballast' means connect the 2 ends of the ballast together, which can be done by jumpering the 2 wires together; the idea is to get 12V direct to the coil for the test and bypass the ballast to test just the coil.

If you got spark at the coil - when you 'hit it' (which I assume means you connected and then disconnected it from ground) it means that the coil primary is good, but no spark at the end of the coil's spark wire means that the coil secondary is open or it is internally shorting. So try a new or another known good coil.

And when you read the resistance of the oil wire as 12.5, I assume you were on the 20k scale on you meter? That coil spark wire resistance is on the high side. (As you foudn by comparison to another coil spark wire..... it is not a long wire, right?) I would replace that.