No brake fluid to rear wheel cylinders

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andrew3408

andrew3408

1969 Plymouth valiant
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Just got through installing a brand new master clyinder on my 69 plymouth valiant got it bench bleed got all the air out of it install it on the car went to right rear wheel open the bleeder valve up while a friend held the brake pedal and no fluid came out and the pedal didn't move went to the left rear the same thing. i did take a paper clip and open the valves up and poked it through.. still no fluid.. what do you guys think is going on here?
 
that hose must of have cloasped or something huh? this car has been sitting for about 6 years.. before i found it and bought it.. thanks sedanman
 
The rubber hoses do collapse internally with age. Do you get any out of the front bleeders?
 
Mad Dart said:
Wrong answer.
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ok bud how can i bleed the rear brakes if there is no fluid getting to them!!!! that what i was asking and i believe his answer is right.. now for bleeding the brakes you are right on that part.. but 1st you got to get fluid going to the wheel clyinders..
 
andrew3408 said:
ok bud how can i bleed the rear brakes if there is no fluid getting to them!!!! that what i was asking and i believe his answer is right.. now for bleeding the brakes you are right on that part.. but 1st you got to get fluid going to the wheel clyinders..
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I was under the assumption that there was nothing wrong with your brakes before you changed your master cylinder. IF your brakes worked prior to the Master Cylinder install then replacing the drop hose will do nothing.

If that is not the case then YES you have other issues. Maybe you did not need to change your master cylinder at all and it was the drop hose the whole time or the wheel cylinders are screwed.
 
When you said you cleared the bleeder,, did you completely remove it, and clear the angled hole at the bottom.. ?? It may not clear just poking a wire/drill in from the out side..

While it's out,, see if fluid can be pumped out of the empty bleeder hole..
 
i don't know if they did or not i just bought this car.. it's been sitting for around 6 years before i bought it.. been working on it over at the peoples house who i blought the car from.. and i bought a brand new master clyinder not reman one.. and i probably put all new wheel clyinders on it also and probably change all of the hoses on the brakes..
 
andrew3408 said:
i don't know if they did or not i just bought this car.. it's been sitting for around 6 years before i bought it.. been working on it over at the peoples house who i blought the car from.. and i bought a brand new master clyinder not reman one.. and i probably put all new wheel clyinders on it also and probably change all of the hoses on the brakes..
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Ok, Car was sitting..... You most likely have other issues. I would replace it all like you are about to do. Parts are cheap enough and your brakes will work well by doing so.
 
A little trick if you don't want to ruin the metal lines if they are froze. buy and make sure they are correct before you do this. I cut the rubber hose,pop the c clip out,put a vice grip on the nut for the metal line and twist the rubber line off,once it's off you can hit it with some heat and lots of penetrating oil and repeat until it breaks free,sometimes tapping it a bit helps too or just twist the rubber line on if it won't break free.
 
inertia said:
When you said you cleared the bleeder,, did you completely remove it, and clear the angled hole at the bottom.. ?? It may not clear just poking a wire/drill in from the out side..

While it's out,, see if fluid can be pumped out of the empty bleeder hole..
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yes i did the hose the goes down to the block is the problem
 
Sedanman said:
A little trick if you don't want to ruin the metal lines if they are froze. buy and make sure they are correct before you do this. I cut the rubber hose,pop the c clip out,put a vice grip on the nut for the metal line and twist the rubber line off,once it's off you can hit it with some heat and lots of penetrating oil and repeat until it breaks free,sometimes tapping it a bit helps too or just twist the rubber line on if it won't break free.
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yeap your right there my little hand held propane torch is a blessing for this kind of work.. and it works really good too.. i use it on the bleeder valves too to break them free
 
if your not getting fluid to the back also check proportioning valve to see if your getting fluid through both sides of it. i think there is a procedure in the fsm to reset it, but it's been many years since I messed with one. If there has been a bad line on the car the chances of the safety being set is high. Bleeding a dry system can be a pain and I still prefer the gravity method first, so that you don't inadvertantly set the safety in the proportioning valve.
 
One other possibility, if the car was trailered: they may have crushed the metal lines on the rear axle by wrapping the hold-down straps over them. I've seen it happen. Quick visual check.
 
mvh said:
One other possibility, if the car was trailered: they may have crushed the metal lines on the rear axle by wrapping the hold-down straps over them. I've seen it happen. Quick visual check.
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lines at the rear axle are not bent or crushed.. and i will have to check the p valve.. i was going to disconnect it anyways and while i gotthe back all disconneted blow air through the lines to make sure there is no blockage in them
 
I did the brakes on a friends AMC Ambassador and two of the three rubber brake lines were plugged. The rear and one front.
 
sounds like the line going to the back and/or proportioning block are rusted up.

you can get replacements from fine lines or from inline tube

http://www.inlinetube.com/
[ame]http://www.finelinesinc.com/content/files/catalog/Finelines-Full-Catalog2014.pdf[/ame]
 
Make sure the rearend isn't hanging down and putting strain on the rubber hose.
 
What are we working with here? Stock 4 wheel Drums? Stock Disc/Drums? Swapped LBP Disc's?

IF LBP Disc swap, there is sometimes an added aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve to the rear, it needs to be full open the bleed the rear.
 
andrew3408 said:
... open the bleeder valve up while a friend held the brake pedal and no fluid came out and the pedal didn't move went to the left rear the same thing ...
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Are you explaining this correctly? Sounds like you pushed the pedal down just once. The brakes should bleed thru from gravity alone, without even stroking the pedal. It helps to use vacuum at the bleeders (grease threads to seal air out). If still nothing, start disconnecting the tubing upstream until you get fluid. I once got nothing from a front caliper (~1993), so had a helper push the pedal hard with both feet. A big clot of rust junk blew out the bleeder hole. I have used DOT 5 silicone fluid in all my non-ABS cars since, and no more rust.
 
ok guys i finally got a warm day to work on this car and the rear hose was blocked or closed up!!!! put the new hose on the car bleed the brakes and i now have rear brakes.. to answer the question this car has all drum brakes on it 9" drum brakes all the way around
 
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