Hotchkis 76 Dart Build

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Yeah, some of those Cannon plug shells (the connector without the pins) can be over $100 each.

My question was if the Cannon plugs came with the harness from Hotwire. Which they apparently, do not.

From what I remember working with them, there are different grades. Some are noted as being "weather proof". Where there is a wire seal that you slide the wires through before you put the pins on. Then the pins are inserted through another silicone seal that is part of the shell.

If you want to use these type of connectors, do yourself a favor too and get the metal pinning/de-pinning tools. The plastic ones that come with the connectors are ok for inserting the pins but suck, just a little bit, for taking them out.

Places like Mouser should have them and the tools. Digikey might. I think both will sell direct to retail, but since I have a business, I can't say for sure since I don't order like that.

Karl M.
 
Karl M said:
Yeah, some of those Cannon plug shells (the connector without the pins) can be over $100 each.

My question was if the Cannon plugs came with the harness from Hotwire. Which they apparently, do not.

From what I remember working with them, there are different grades. Some are noted as being "weather proof". Where there is a wire seal that you slide the wires through before you put the pins on. Then the pins are inserted through another silicone seal that is part of the shell.

If you want to use these type of connectors, do yourself a favor too and get the metal pinning/de-pinning tools. The plastic ones that come with the connectors are ok for inserting the pins but suck, just a little bit, for taking them out.

Places like Mouser should have them and the tools. Digikey might. I think both will sell direct to retail, but since I have a business, I can't say for sure since I don't order like that.

Karl M.
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I'd have to quiz the wiring guy with the plug questions. I can tell you that they weren't $100 each, but other than that, I've got nothin'.

I talked to Hotwire at SEMA about my harness and how it was bulkheaded. They will do it and have thought of doing it as an option. Just have to ask for now I guess.
 
Wheels are on and the car is on it's suspension at the moment...

I went cheap on the wheels to start with since I'm not sure where this will end up for tire size. They will always make good rain wheels. Got them from American Muscle. They are 18x10 at 24mm and weigh 20.9 lbs for $210 each. Didn't think that was too bad for a wheel of that weight and size.

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Some more fab shots and details...

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Wiring with OBDII Port that will be used for the RacePak.

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Dual Battery switch and isolator that is used for the FIA legal kill switch. There is a button on the cowl and on the dash that is used to kill the car. Details on their site Armtech .

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At least I have a piece of Carbon Fiber on the car...

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Fuel Cell and pump leads

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Dual pumps mounted in a surge tank. Switch on the dash to flip between if one fails.

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Remote oil filter mount
 
not sure how much wiggle room the rules allow on the cow catcher front bumper.....but the Pro stock cars of the 70's shaved / sectioned the daylights out of them....narrowed to tuck in, removed some of the rear to pushed them way back against the body, and even shortened them.

.....besides cutting thru the air better, it makes the car look little more racey.....just my opinion.
 
Quick question, but who's disc brake kit are those and what suspension are you running. I wasn't able to rear mount my calipers with the Hotchkis UCA's and Dr Diff's 13" Brembo-style caliper kit.
 
HemiDenny said:
not sure how much wiggle room the rules allow on the cow catcher front bumper.....but the Pro stock cars of the 70's shaved / sectioned the daylights out of them....narrowed to tuck in, removed some of the rear to pushed them way back against the body, and even shortened them.

.....besides cutting thru the air better, it makes the car look little more racey.....just my opinion.
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Yeah, that will get worked on when it finally gets to the body shop.
 
MuuMuu101 said:
Quick question, but who's disc brake kit are those and what suspension are you running. I wasn't able to rear mount my calipers with the Hotchkis UCA's and Dr Diff's 13" Brembo-style caliper kit.
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Dr Diff's kit. They said it clears, I've not seen it in person, so that's all I've got until I'm down there next month.
 
consulier said:
Dr Diff's kit. They said it clears, I've not seen it in person, so that's all I've got until I'm down there next month.
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Maybe something was funky with my alignment (car is still on jack stands). When I turned it to full lock under full droop, the bleeder was sitting right underneath the UCA. Granted it was a rough and dirty alignment using precision eye balls.
 
consulier said:
I'd have to quiz the wiring guy with the plug questions. I can tell you that they weren't $100 each, but other than that, I've got nothin'.

I talked to Hotwire at SEMA about my harness and how it was bulkheaded. They will do it and have thought of doing it as an option. Just have to ask for now I guess.
Click to expand...


Those are Deutsch connectors. Ladd Industries is the largest distributor I know of, but I've also found them on other websites. They are primarily used in the commercial equipment market and Diesel engine manufacturers use them on all the new electronic controlled diesels. They are very high quality and not necessarily cheap. I'll will have a couple bulkheads on my build. Here's a hint; search ebay for "Deutsch connector". There is a good chance you may find something you will like.
 
From my years of working with Mil Spec connectors, I remember among the variables, there is shell size and pin configuration. So in a given shell, there may be a variety of pin configurations available. And that of course that will vary by the manufacturer and connector series. Some connector series allow a pin configuration that has pins that will accommodate 12 and even 10 gauge wire.

Since my car is going to be street driven and a long distance cruiser, I need water tight/weatherproof connectors. The small signal wires, aren't a big deal. The ones that are going to really take some thinking about are going to be the high current wires that feed the vehicles electrical system and coming from the alternator output. Both these go through the firewall.

Now the OEM firewall connectors worked well for decades, but they are a compromise at best. So I'm looking for long term, water tight solutions for that.

Karl M.
 
just curious....what do you think it will weigh?
 
Dart Lite, fiberglass bumpers with aluminum mounts... shooting for under 3,000.
 
consulier said:
Dart Lite, fiberglass bumpers with aluminum mounts... shooting for under 3,000.
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Very impressive with a true full cage to make a ridged chassis for handling. Extensive cage and bracing take weight.
 
consulier said:
Dart Lite, fiberglass bumpers with aluminum mounts... shooting for under 3,000.
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My guess would be around 3400-3500. That cage aint "lite"

Hope for the best....Be nice to be around 3000.
 
HemiDenny said:
My guess would be around 3400-3500. That cage aint "lite"

Hope for the best....Be nice to be around 3000.
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Cage isn't exactly heavy either. Probably 250lbs of cage and bracing. That would be 125 ft of 1.75 x .120, which I don't think there is that much and some is .095. There has been a lot of weight removed as well, plus I could do more fiberglass if needed, power windows, lexan, etc...
 
It's alive...

[ame=http://youtu.be/n8T4DQC_1qs]Dart Test Firing[/ame]
Very happy with the exhaust sound. It's using single chamber Magnaflows and will have a dump before the axle. Racepak dash is super cool and I'll
probably not know how to use half of what it has. You can see on the switch panel it flips between 2 different screens.

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The most expensive brake lines known to man... seriously

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Red button on the left kills everything and there is another of the same on the cowel for external kill as well. Green button powers up everything. Red
light next to the headlight switch is the electric power steering failure light in case it goes out. High Beams are on the floor and Front, Mid, Rear switches
run optional lights in those areas, or interior pieces.

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You can see the center head restraint net in this shot and the mounts on the door bars for window nets on both sides.

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Straps in the trunk are used to hold a full size spare.
 
Alright, you tried to sneak this one past us!!!

Looks like you did a "reverse" mini-tub on the rear wheel tubs. Necessary because the stock wheel tubs have a "bump" and taper in substantially, so there's actually quite a bit of room to be had out there. I've been looking at doing something there, the 295/35/18's I have out back are really close to the quarters and that "bump". Haven't hit anything yet, but I still would like to lower my car another 1/2" or so and that might make it an issue.

Do you have any more pictures or description of what you did? Are the outers still welded to the quarters in any way? Pretty sure you did it all with the quarters on, so I'd be interested to hear how it went (since I'm not pulling the quarters to do it). Thanks!"


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It was done, they said it wasn't that bad to do, that's all I got. Fender lips where rolled as well and now there is plenty of room for a 295/40/18 and could probably fit a 305/315. Could go even larger if I just did 1/2" offset hangers from Dr. Diff to move the springs a bit.

You can see the burn marks in the quarters from where they attached the new outer to the quarter panel.

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Man, I don't know how I missed this thread.. VERY nice work, that is a dream car I would love to drive!
 
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