replacing rod bearings in car

Well if you gotta do it, I would just leave the engine hoist in place AND put in the jackstands. Double supports mean more safety. You might get enough clearance to pull the pan by hoisting the engine up as far as you can, drop the steering drag link (you need a small pickle fork), and see if you can get the pan off that way. I personally would try that first, because dropping the k-member is in no way a minor job and especially so outdoors and with basic tools; [ Really dumb statement deleted! LOL]

If the rod bearing really did spin, it means that it physically spun within the big end bore of the connecting rod. The new beraring will not hold in place if this is the case, and the rod and piston has to be removed and undergo a process called reconditioning so that the new bearing will hold. You have to pull the head to get the piston and rod out.

Occasionally a rod bearing can be damaged and not actually spin in the rod's big end (or not spin much); you will only know if you pull the bottom end off. You will know if it actualy spun because when you pull the rod cap off, then the nice, fine cross hatch pattern in the inside of the rod cap will look all scored and it will likley look burned. You can post pix here of the rod cap and the bearing shells and we can likely tell.

If the rod big end is not damaged, then the condition of the rod journals on the crank is next. Same thing, should be shiney and smooth but will likely be scored or scored badly. You need to borrow a caliper and push the rod and piston up out of the way and measure the crank diameter v. spec. If more than a few thousandths down in size then you can't fix it with a new bearing. If only .001-.003" down then you may be able to polish enough of the scoring out in-car. I won't describe that until you need it.

You can occasionally find .001" undersize bearings for these engines on ebay so that can take up a small amount of wear.

BTW, the rod caps HAVE to go back on the same rods, and in the same orientation, no exceptions! It will lock the crank up tight if you mix them or install them backwards.

If you remove all the rod caps and they look good, then you have a damaged main bearing. Same thing there: you have to pull the main caps one at a time to find it. Keep them in order. Any good bearing put back in right away; you don't want the crank dropping on your head! If a cap is scored, showing that the bearing physically spun then the whole block has to come out; it can't be fixed in-car. If just the crank, then you drop the crank out and have it turned down. Requires that the trannie be pulled out to drop the crank..... more heavy work.

Since you have to move the car, then feel free go at it but be ready to put it all back in and have it towed in case you find more than you can repair in the car. If you could pull the engine out, you would be much better off with this situation.