Long pedal travel again after overhaul

Well, if youve got new hoses coming, then I have a plan for you.
- Before you change any hoses; Clamp all 3 of the current hoses, as close to the m/c side as you can without damaging them. Now go try your pedal. If the hydraulics are good, the pedal will immediately be hard, and with very, very little travel. If this is not the case, determine why. Could be air. Could be sloppy linkage. I suspect it will be just perfect.
-Next unclamp the rear hose,and retest the pedal. Should still have a hard pedal after a wee bit of travel. not much travel because the fronts are still clamped. Next reclamp the rear, unclamp a front and retest the pedal. Finally reclamp the previously unclamped line and move to the other front side.Repeat. By this time you will have a pretty good idea of whats going on.
-If the pedal stays hard at each test and with only a small amount of travel, then the system is probably working as designed. However if you find any one drum that produces significantly more travel than the others, thats your go-to drum.
-You can accomplish similar results by cranking the adjusters out tight, and in fact still may have to in the back,because its the only way to isolate the left from the right, as they share the same hose.Its just faster, clamping them.
-I never recommend clamping as its all too easy to damage the hoses internally, with resultant down-the-road failure, traceable to me.Hoses generally rot from the inside out, so even though clamping may not damage them externally, internally,you cant see it.I would not want to be held responsible for a failure. For you thats all moot because you already have new hoses on order.
-Instead of clamping the hoses, I have, in the past,clamped the wheel cylinder pistons in, with appropriately sized C-clamps. This is, of course, fairly time consuming. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. It has the advantage of ruling out just about everything, short of the hoses, and bad hoses are in-your-face obvious.
All the best