Metal Buildings, best company to use, also wood construction ?s

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I find this very interesting, but it would really help me decide if it is feasible for me to put something up if I knew what it would cost
(not what their advertised prices are, but what it will cost me by the time its done)
 
I would rather put in a 4 post lift for more safety and I see it is possible to move it around, though once I get it where I would want it, it would stay put.

How do you insulate the pad? I know about putting plastic down first for moisture but not how to insulate it.

As far as insulating a roof, is foam board (stuff avail at HD/Lowes) is that good enough or is there better stuff to use?

For stick building, can you place a product like cinder block right on top of a concrete pad, to start the foundation or does it have to be "in the ground" like a trench? If you can put right on top, do you have to (or how do you) anchor it to the pad?
 
I bumped my new shop build up to the top so might give you some ideas. I blocked up 3 blocks high and used regular 8 ft studs then had trusses built like a tray ceiling to give me an additional 2 feet in the center bay so I have plenty of clearance for 4 post lift when I get around to installing it. I also used spray foam insulation and am now installing pegboard. Just takes time when doing it myself,Joe
 
Finally found photo. Two 10x10 and two 12x12 roll up doors line up on the other side. Had to do 12' cause of the boats Ttop.
 

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I have a metal 40 x 40 x 16 RV storage and if I was going to do it again here is what I would do. Have insulation sprayed on the ceiling and sides, figure out where you might add a lift one day and make sure the slab is poured thicker there and also might want to add tubing in the floor for under floor heat, the tubing is really cheap to do before the slab is poured. My biggest problem right now with mine is all the heat escaping through the roof in the winter. A 200k space heater barely keeps up.
 
halifaxhops said:
I have a metal 40 x 40 x 16 RV storage and if I was going to do it again here is what I would do. Have insulation sprayed on the ceiling and sides, figure out where you might add a lift one day and make sure the slab is poured thicker there and also might want to add tubing in the floor for under floor heat, the tubing is really cheap to do before the slab is poured. My biggest problem right now with mine is all the heat escaping through the roof in the winter. A 200k space heater barely keeps up.
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I looked into the heated floor system and it would have been $2500 easy. I just use a 60,000 btu propane heater and it's nice in about 20 min. It's not near as cold here as in P.A.
 
I was going to hook it up to a coal stove and just recirculate it. I think the tubing was around 300 for just the tubing. Here if you are not well insulated it stinks. I really need to rent a high lift and put some of that silver roll type insulation on the bottom of the ceiling to reflect the heat back in. Money is getting tight here, should have done it at first.
 
for example what a typical; pole building here in s w Missouri can be had for: 40 x 60 x 12, 1 sliding door 12 ft wide, 1 walk in door, no conc, no insulation, materials and labor $ 13,000. yep labor is cheap here, but the co. makes a profit, sells tons of these, I have had 3 of their so far. just the typical pole building, no soffit. built on your level spot.

30 x 40 x 10, 7200 built.

if doing a pole building the answer to keeping it warm and cool is insulation. put a ceiling in it and blow insulation there. if you do the work it won't cost take much to put in wall studs, insulate with 6 in bates, blown in ins. is great but expensive here. I hate sheetrock but its cheap. I rather do the walls with particle board and paint it to seal it.
 
My walls are good r30 with 5/8 particle board. Just got ill before the ceiling and sheet rock will be a pain, the ceiling(bottom of the roof frame, blanked out on the name) is 16" up! Thinking a barrier like 3/8 insulation board will work great, never going up there.
 
I work with telco/bldg wiring all day and I hate metal buildings. There is no way to secure comm wire to the structure without driving a screw into it and I dont do that because of rust issues. If you got conduit, great, run it everywhere you need electricity or data, otherwise go wireless. I know this is petty for a garage but I do plenty of commercial garages made of metal and their comm wiring is always ratty. If you do go metal with all its advantages, put up cheap MDF 4X8 panels inside. Makes it easy to attach stuff, ie shelving, sub panels, Mopar pictures...etc. Also has an insulative quality as well as sound deadener. I'd trade my attached 2.5 garage for some of y'alls land! Concrete floor a must, then peel and stick tile for sweeping ease and eazy spill cleanup. asphalt is damaged by floor jacks and petroleum leaks, dirt is just 3rd world.
If you go wood, use concrete pillars as bases for all support wood joists. Subteranian termites use bare wood in dirt as elevator shafts to get to your structure. only termite damage I had in my raised foundation house was where the P/O supported the fireplace with bare wood 4X4s directly into the ground. Used a bottle jack and a sawzall to replace all 6 with cement pilings: jack support, cut off termite bottom, bolt new piling under existing good wood. F U termites!
 
Back in 1980 in Illinois, I went with a 42' X 42' Morton building. It had the energy performer option - 6 inches of insulation in the walls and 12 inches in the ceiling. It is lined inside with steel. Then we put heat in the floor. It was very cheap to heat - even with an electric boiler.

Morton is about the only, or one of the few, that has a lifetime guarantee. Morton is pretty pricey, but worth it in the long run - in my honest opinion. I know here in Northern Wisconsin; Morton is the only one I have found that will guarantee no failure from a heavy snow load.
 
Pics of my shop and lights inside. Cost wise you need to triple the cost of the building from manufacturer. Mine is 40X50 with 3 12X12 doors and roof pitch of 12-2. I ordered doors and all with the building. I recommend you just order the doors and windows framed and buy doors from a company like overhead doors. These companies blow smoke up peoples *** how easy you can put these up I had help from five friends and rented a large fork lift and a lift. It took quite a while as it was only done on week ends and that year we had a couple hurricanes. During the time I worked for Ma Bell so overtime was mandatory to restore service. The bad thing is my slab was not ready when building was delivered so it was stacked in the yard and covered with blue tarps. With delays the rain water got trapped in the the stack of outside wall panels causing damage to the paint. We went a head and finished the building and dried it in. It still a hell of a shop but the outside panels could look better. What can you do it is what it is:eek:ops: View attachment Bills pics 008 (640x480).jpg

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6pkScamp said:
Finally got a photo of the inside.
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Wow nice tidy shop! One day I might get mine cleaned up like that. I wish I would have sealed my floors as mine are pretty stained upped. I also need to build some shelves to get crap off the floor. Will be a while as funds are a little low from Christmas and a puppy with a ulcer in her eye which I am happy to say is healed up but costly. :cheers:
 
Just a thought for anybody considering having an insulated shop. Put down foam board under the slab before you pour it. The foam board will function as the vapor barrier as well as insulation from the slab to the earth. If you put tubing in the slab for a possible "in floor" radiant heat, this is imperative. The ground under your slab will literally suck the heat down thru the slab.
 
67cudafb said:
Wow nice tidy shop! One day I might get mine cleaned up like that. I wish I would have sealed my floors as mine are pretty stained upped. I also need to build some shelves to get crap off the floor. Will be a while as funds are a little low from Christmas and a puppy with a ulcer in her eye which I am happy to say is healed up but costly. :cheers:
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Thanks
I try to keep it clean. As far as the floor I couldnt afford epoxy so I found some non water base sealer. As long as you get it wiped up it won't stain. Now if I would quit getting drunk and doing burn outs with the car and the Harley it would be nicer

Sorry about to hear about your dog. Their like part of the family. Glad their on the mend
 
I am looking at using Renegade Steel Buildings. Good base price and options galore. They do not do wiring but that is not a deal breaker. They operate out of Hoschton Ga.
RenegadeBuildings.com. 706 654 3100.

Michael
 
Mark give me a call. I have a couple buddies that have different type shops than mine. One is the pole barn type with a concrete floor and the other has the metal type building. we can go look at them and you can get a better idea.

Ricky
 
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