Correct way to set rear angle?

rod7515 said
Treblig, Thats the exact article I used to set up my thought pattern. It shows that the rear must run parallel to the transmission output shaft which is just an extended line from the center of the crankshaft. Using the balancer as a 90* reference and the face of the rear housing on a 90* reference I am thinking that I had the parallel lines. Then by dropping the rear down 6-8* should give me the 6-8* drop? I am asking if my thought pattern is correct. I just dont want to weld and find out I miss understood. So are you saying yes its good?
Rod

Well they say that for the least amount of drive line vibration your rear center line should be parallel to the engine/trans center line. But it really isn't clear about "when" they should be parallel. That being said, depending on your rear end suspension (ladder bars, springs, etc) the amount of differential rotation (they all rotate up) will determine the corrective angle "down" because the pinion will rise under acceleration. So (now I'm thinking out loud), if your pinion rises 2 degrees (example) you should position it 2 degrees lower that the place where it would be if it were parallel. This way, under load, the pinion will rise into a position which will be parallel with the engine drive line diminishing vibrations and increasing the life of the drive line components. Remember that old leaf springs are softer and allow more pinion "vertical movement", also the number of spring "stabilizer" clamps will stiffen the springs and increase spring rigidity.
Can anyone else AGREE or DISAGREE???

Worst case scenario, If you're off by a degree or two after welding you can easily slide and angle shim in there and correct/perfect the angle.

treblig