How To A-833 4 Speed Rebuild pics

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No worries brother, glad I can help out. I just got back around to getting the bolts out and here are some pics of how it should go. The bolts are laid out as removed from the cover. In the first pic, the lower right longer bolt goes in the lower right corner of the side cover in the second pic. The upper left bolt in the first pic goes in the upper left corner of the second pic. I tried to get a good shot of the bolt sizes and shoulder lengths for you guys. Let me know if you need more pics. The bolt in the right middle does have a taller shoulder to account for the backup light switch harness bracket.

4spdragtop said:
Thanks Ken, I have put some goop and gasket on the case, so if I pull my case off I will tear the gasket:banghead: It had been a while since I took the cover off and blasted it and totally forgot there was one odd ball bolt!! Oh it also looks with the bolts I have that the there are 2 standard bolts(no shoulders) that go in the upper left holes(in my pic)?? Sorry, for hijacking the thread, but I thought instead of starting a new one, I might just piggy back off of yours! The info might help others as well.

Thanks
4spdragtop
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Map63Vette said:
When I pulled mine apart (I have the later style cover if it makes a difference), the two standard bolts where in the lower right position on those raised pads. I can't remember if I had one or two longer shoulder bolts, but I think one of them went at the 9 o'clock position.
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Mine is a 69 tranny and I only have one of the longer shoulder bolts. I checked both shop manual and parts manual and no reference to which hole it goes in. Gonna have to try to take the cover off and hopefully dont rip the gasket. Im a dumbass.....
 
smartken22 said:
No worries brother, glad I can help out. I just got back around to getting the bolts out and here are some pics of how it should go. The bolts are laid out as removed from the cover. In the first pic, the lower right longer bolt goes in the lower right corner of the side cover in the second pic. The upper left bolt in the first pic goes in the upper left corner of the second pic. I tried to get a good shot of the bolt sizes and shoulder lengths for you guys. Let me know if you need more pics. The bolt in the right middle does have a taller shoulder to account for the backup light switch harness bracket.
Click to expand...


Hey smartken, I was typing when you were....thanks for the pics!! I tried that hole with no luck, so looks like the cover is gonna have to come off. I dont recall having the b/u bracket, so will have to get one eventually. Thanks again. Its been helpful for me, and no doubt for someone else!!

4spdragtop
 
Yeah I agree, the manual is vague in that area. I just ordered a whole new bolt set from Brewers to make sure I had the right ones. Hopefully the pictures helped you. Now I am not sure how the bolt pattern/layout changes from the newer/older style covers. I also have the newer ball detent interlock style cover. Not sure about the config of the comb detent interlock covers.

4spdragtop said:
Mine is a 69 tranny and I only have one of the longer shoulder bolts. I checked both shop manual and parts manual and no reference to which hole it goes in. Gonna have to try to take the cover off and hopefully dont rip the gasket. Im a dumbass.....
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So I ventured to the shop to put the 4spd back together. What the issue was that the prev owner had tried to put the bolt with the longer shoulder in the wrong hole and it had mushroomed a little bit. So ground the mushroom off and good as gold! Thanks everyone!! I took pics of the hole in the casing to show the difference...as always sorry for the shabby pics!

4spdragtop

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4spdragtop said:
So I ventured to the shop to put the 4spd back together. What the issue was that the prev owner had tried to put the bolt with the longer shoulder in the wrong hole and it had mushroomed a little bit. So ground the mushroom off and good as gold! Thanks everyone!! I took pics of the hole in the casing to show the difference...as always sorry for the shabby pics!

4spdragtop
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That's the bolt that locates the side cover . You'll want to check to make sure that the trans shifts innto reverse easily , if it doesn't go or goes hard loosen all the side cover bolts and tap the cover up then retighten .
 
I was just going to confirm the bolt placement as well. I had my 4 speed apart on the back porch and noticed that one hole was countersunk more for the longer shoulder bolt. I had to drill out my sidecover as well. For some reason it would fit the shoulder of the shorter bolt, but not the shoulder of the longer bolt. Just tapped it with a drill and the old bolt worked fine.
 
JohnRR said:
That's the bolt that locates the side cover . You'll want to check to make sure that the trans shifts innto reverse easily , if it doesn't go or goes hard loosen all the side cover bolts and tap the cover up then retighten .
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Thanks! Just going to start taking the shifter apart to clean it up. If I can get it to shift sitting on the bench I will give it a try! LOL
 
Map63Vette said:
I was just going to confirm the bolt placement as well. I had my 4 speed apart on the back porch and noticed that one hole was countersunk more for the longer shoulder bolt. I had to drill out my sidecover as well. For some reason it would fit the shoulder of the shorter bolt, but not the shoulder of the longer bolt. Just tapped it with a drill and the old bolt worked fine.
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Mine was the same way, but thats because the previous owner tried putting it in the wrong hole and "mushroomed" the larger shoulder slightly....I ground the mushroom off and all good!
 
thanks for posting this.......very good info
 
smartken22 said:
I agree with you on this one...it is a lot easier than I was expecting! Some mechanical know how and lots of patience! The service manuals help out even more. Now when it comes to an auto, that is a whole different animal! I am not sure that I would want to tackle one of those!
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The automatics are not all that tough either. There are more seals and take a little longer to do, but, if you can follow a repair manual and lay everything out like you did on your 4 speed build, it's something you can do. There are a few extra tools to make the job easier (so what else is new!) like a clutch pack press or a set of bushing drivers. but with a little thought, you can get around that and make do. You will need an inch pound torque wrench though....
 
Pointy is good...rounded over is bad. A good rule of thumb when doing a rebuild especially when its got some miles on it is to change them out. It is cheap insurance and alot cheaper then replacing gears! I did some research for you and a set of syncros runs $49.95 at Brewers.
 
Does that apply to the gears also ? If you have the tranny out do you just go ahead and replace the syncros and the gears all at the same time ?
 
The rear center hole is drilled deeper in some transmissions. That is where the bolt with the longer shoulder goes. It is made that way to line up the side cover better. After you install the side cover "snug" the bolts up ( not to tight) and then tap lightly on the bottom of the side cover to move it up towards the top of trans. This will make it go in reverse easier and come out easier. This even helps if your trans. uses the long shoulder bolt.
 
This tranny for this build had lots of miles on it so I changed out the syncros as they were pretty rounded over. I would only change the gears if you see some really bad wear/chipping or such. The gears you see going in this tranny are in really good shape if you need a reference. I will see if I will try to post some pics later of some worn gears. Trust me they are pricey!

uwss said:
Does that apply to the gears also ? If you have the tranny out do you just go ahead and replace the syncros and the gears all at the same time ?
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Thanks for all that effort into that thread. I noticed during the thread 340 Wedge. Never heard those two put together like that. Chrysler do something I wasnt aware of or is it a home brew?
 
4spdragtop said:
Just in the middle of painting mine and putting it back together...I have 1 oddball bolt for the side cover. I dont think its correct...I think the previous owner used what he had. Notice the shoulder is longer and the bolt itself is longer?? I tried in all the holes and doesnt want to snug up. I dont want to "stack" washers either. Any ideas??

Thanks
4spdragtop
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Try the 2 middle holes, front and back. They had a counterbore to center the side plate on the main housing.
 
One hole is counter bored deeper for the longer shoulder. I have always installed
that bolt first. They are made like this so the cover mounts precisely without any
slop around the threads.
 
This post is very helpful! I did my shift shaft seals over the weekend and put a few more pics up in this thread! The exploded view of the detent was especially helpful as I almost had a heart attack when I found the interlock rod on the bench and hadn't seen it fall out of the spring.
A-833 shift shaft seal tricks
 
FYI, aside from an expansion screw set, as outlined in the original rebuild artical, there is another way to get that reverse idler gear shaft out (there is no way that pounding it out with a long punch at a severe angle would work... like the service manual says). The manual refers this job to special tool C-3638.

I first tried a free Ball Joint rental from my local O’Reilly’s... but the C-clamp was too shallow, and wouldn’t have been wide enough anyway. So I hit Menards and found a $15 8” C-clamp that was perfect.

I used a couple of properly sized sockets, and a copper pipe extension for extra leverage on the weeny crank handle.

Once I put a little torque on the apparatus, the shaft popped and slide right out.

My project

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