fast efi problem

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yes, haved rerouted wires.
so last nigh i checked out fuel rails and injectors for debris, took every connection apart to inspect/clean and went for a test drive. didn't even make it 1 mile from my house and it died for good. now maybe i can find the problem

had the exact same semtums on a 6 cyl. chrysler powered farm tractor once. turned out to be the coil.
 
^^Damn Gremlins! haha Any updates on this problem?
 
i only have 2 splices, main power and ground to battey because its in the trunk. ive rerouted wires. the highest number ive seen on the rms is 08.
if the computer wont learn and randomly kills the engine, and i mean ''kills'' as if the ignition is cut, wouldn't that point towards a problem with the ecu ?
with all the wiring and adjustments ive made there is absolutley no change.

Since the EZ EFI has nothing to due with the operation of the ignition system I think you on the wrong track here.

its a msd e curve. i have the fast ez efi, not the 2.0 so the only thing the dizzy does is supply tac siganal wich i understand is crutial. i originally had my tac and the fast plugged in to the dizzy and on friday the tech guy said that would be the problem for sure. i unplugged the tac, rerouted the wires and stll no change. i'm sure it's a malfunction of the fast system, this thing ran great all last summer and the first couple hundred miles this year and then started acting up.

I take it you are using the rpm signal from the e curve dizzy. I not to familar with the MSD e curve, but are you running it with or without a box? Are you using the supplied RPM module from FAST that would have been in your kit to cut down on signal interference? They state several times in the instructions that the tach signal from the Coil is not a ideal source I dont know how well the E curves rpm signal would be without a ign. box. I personally upgraded to a aftermarket ignition box at the same time of install just for the proper tach signal. My car is currently down for new mods but I have not had a problem yet with my EZ EFI setup (knock on wood).
 
Grounding the ECU at the battery is a bad thing!!!! A "single point ground" on the engine is correct. That puts all sensing references, in the same boat. By now it is possible the ECU circuitry is damaged. The ECU harness could shunt the starting current, it impressed with the starting voltage drop, when grounded at battery. Most CMOS circuity can only tolerate a maximum of 0.3V below ground, or above (5V)Vcc without damage. ECU internal ground circuity on PCB is not designed to shunt starting currents. Some may get by with good ground and battery near engine, but grounding at trunk battery is as bad as it gets! Grounding some things at battery, while other components are grounded at engine is very bad.

Wire routing is done in a way to minimize mutual coupling. Sensor wiring is kept separate where possible from injector, coil wiring and other switched loads. Avoid wiring loops where ignition cables electromagnetically induce into sensor wiring.
 
I hate threads like this where you never find out the results. It's like missing the last 10 minutes of a movie.
 
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