Pistons in hand when boring?
A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush....
Depends on whose hands and what bush. :D
But you also need to know how much bore/over bore you are going with before you get the pistons....
Got it.
At the factory, they bore the blocks to the block specs, and the pistons are made to the piston specs. If they are both made properly, they will all work together and not need to be "special fit"....
But for one engine at a time, you are better having the machinist make it to the pistons once you decide what bore diameter you are going with and then order pistons for that. Then he can make sure the pistons will fit the cylinders properly. You can control your clearances better that way....
See now that's the way I always understood it, and is also why I liked RRR's way.
If I had a choice, that would be the way it would get done, but you know how shops are.
They could bore first, slap pistons in it when they came in and send it down the road.
When I get ready to do it, the shop will get the block and new pistons (hopefully marked per cylinder) and I'll do the assembly.
The little 318 is starting to smoke off and on just a little depending on temperature, and sometimes it puffs a little on warm startups.
I was thinking to just figure out what I need for pistons for an NA daily driver that gets stomped on once in awhile and end up with somewhere about 9.5 to one.
I have a never been installed Mopar Performance cam, hyd lifters and double roller T set already, but the cam is more radical than I can use so I'll probably sell it to get the one RRR recommended or one with about the same profile (semi mild) it looks like.
Something I can keep the converter with most likely.
Might just find a good LA360 and leave it at that, but I'd still want a good running cam in it with a lightly intimidating idle.
I'm assuming that's what cam manufacturers mean when they say "Fair idle"
