way too slow at drag strip! what should it run?

OK here is the setup
67 notch weight 3300lbs
Chassis STK ft shocks with /6 tors.
STK rear shocks, /6 leafs with extra leafs added.
NO snubber or traction bars.
B body 8 3/4 with 3.91 sure grip
360 .030 10/10 STK crank
Eagle sir rods
KB 107 pistons .005 positive deck. Out of hole
587 heads with 2.02/1.60 Ferrea race flow valves
Pocket ported, push rod pinch open up
Gasket matched. Polished chambers
Valves UN shrouded and deck, 70cc
True 10.1 to 1 comp
Hughes solid cam HTL4852S
248/252 @.050 .563/.572 106 LSA+3
Hughes 1111 double springs
Iron adj rockers, Crower push rods
Crappy professional products air gap
Holley 770 vac sec street avenger
Pertronix billet flame thrower 3 ready run
727 with turbo action rev vb
Turbo action S800 3500 stall
MT 29/10.5/15 slicks.
On got 2 passes. Spur of moment last race of year kinda thing and just install engine in car.
Only ran 12.7@104 SLOW!!
Cut out and popped going down track would not pull. Afterwards found out only had 20deg timing max!! And only 5psi fuel pressure.
What should this run after tuned right??
Also will be going to 4.88 spool with 29 tire and a dynamic 8" 4500 stall. Was ran on 100 Oct turbo blue

Combo is all over the place. Race car only? Needs a single plane intake and a mech. secondary carb. Should be 12.0-11.80s maybe with everything working right? I thought my car was slow too - 3,200lbs with me in it, -340/W2, .557" cam, Victor intake, 750 DP, 10" 3,800 converter, 4.10 gear, drag radials, Caltracs, only went 12.20 @ 110. Found out it was only on 7 cylinders, #5 had a broken piston ring. Also might have had some fuel delivery issues, was likely draining the bowls by the end of the run. Car should have been in the 11s.

Like said above, get the thing running right first with the timing, fuel pressure etc. Verify valve lash. Timing>float level>transfer slots>mixture screws>accelerator pump>jets>air bleeds. If you switch to a double pumper, verify engine vacuum and get the right power valve. If you stay with the vacuum carb, get some different springs for the vacuum pod to change the rate opening. What kind of fuel pump is it, mechanical or electric? Maybe get an air/fuel gauge to see where your mixture is at. It's really helpful to be able to see that information. There's a lot of tuning left. One step at a time or you'll never know where you are at.

And as mentioned already, get your chassis sorted out before you swap gears. Better shocks all around, better rear springs with some device to control wrap up. Tire pressure is also a tuning tool. Is it aligned properly? Half of ET is chassis.