Fuel level sending units

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breakstuff

breakstuff

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Is there actually a company out there that makes one that works? 3 of my Cars I upgraded to 3/8 fuel lines and replaced the sending units and they are different brands, all 3 suck.
 
Looks exactly like the one I got for 40, so I would say someone is just making more money than others.
Have you seen the thread on the calibration box for the senders?
It allows you to literally set the guage at any level of fuel, so you can set it at empty, add a gallon and set it for that and so on all the way to full.

I know what you are going through, as I replaced my guage and sender both with supposedly matching ohm parts and it was still off when over half a tank of gas.
At least it's pretty acurate when below half a tank and at empty.
 
TrailBeast said:
Looks exactly like the one I got for 40, so I would say someone is just making more money than others.
Have you seen the thread on the calibration box for the senders?
It allows you to literally set the guage at any level of fuel, so you can set it at empty, add a gallon and set it for that and so on all the way to full.

I know what you are going through, as I replaced my guage and sender both with supposedly matching ohm parts and it was still off when over half a tank of gas.
At least it's pretty acurate when below half a tank and at empty.
Click to expand...

I did see that post . I m looking for the easy way out I guess? This sender has a different part number then the cheaper ones. Brewer sells this one as well foe $118.
 
The difference in the sender prices comes from materials used, steel and stainless steel. Their ohms range is the same 80-10.
 
RedFish said:
Their ohms range is the same 80-10.
Click to expand...

Well, that's the theory anyway.
Never seems to work out from doing mine and seeing issue's that others are having.
I got a brand new sender and what was supposed to be the matching guage and it doesn't read right.
If I fill it up it takes close to 80 miles before it starts coming down.
It's accurate as it gets closer to empty though so I'm ok with it.
 
When the gauge quit on the Super Bee during the 05 Hot Rod Power tour, we went to radio shack and bought a cheap multimeter. unhooked the gas tank sending units wire by the drivers kick panel connector going to the dash. grabbed ground and ran the two wires between the bucket seats. My daughter (the co-pilot) would turn the meter on at fill up and write down the ohms reading. Ever so often she would read the ohms scale again and when it got near empty we would pull in and fill up. again, and again, and again, and agai..... well you get the gist of it. 4000 miles at 10 mpg= 400 gallons of (hopefully)premium gas.
I don't remember what the full and empty values were but easy to figure out and I know it's not a permenate solution.
But hope this helps.
 
moperformance said:
When the gauge quit on the Super Bee during the 05 Hot Rod Power tour, we went to radio shack and bought a cheap multimeter. unhooked the gas tank sending units wire by the drivers kick panel connector going to the dash. grabbed ground and ran the two wires between the bucket seats. My daughter (the co-pilot) would turn the meter on at fill up and write down the ohms reading. Ever so often she would read the ohms scale again and when it got near empty we would pull in and fill up. again, and again, and again, and agai..... well you get the gist of it. 4000 miles at 10 mpg= 400 gallons of (hopefully)premium gas.
I don't remember what the full and empty values were but easy to figure out and I know it's not a permenate solution.
But hope this helps.
Click to expand...

A cheap ohms meter monitoring the sender is a very good way for these owners to verify the fault is actually in their 40 year old fuel gauge. So many of them do the same meaningless gauge tests. First off/ open/ infinite resistance is no needle movement. Second is dead short/ zero resistance gets needle to travel rapidly to the extreme full position. They assume the gauge is good while they have actually proved nothing.
Others will suggest you go to radio shack and buy resistors to test at 78, 23, and 10 ohms. This was deemed sufficient for factory engineers and for service techs 40 years ago. It really doesn't mean a whole heck of a lot though. You still don't know how the mechanical components inside the gauge are going to respond to all those other in between ohms values.
Ever wonder why this issue is always the fuel gauge and nobody ever complains about their temp gauge and/or those senders ?
The bi-metal in a temp gauge rarely gets anywhere near as hot as that in a fuel gauge. It never ever experiences those rapid temperature swings that exist in the fuel gauge operation either. Am I going the long way about saying the bimetal in a fuel gauge is fatigued and the majority of its original temperance is lost ?
ABSOLUTELY !
I gave up trying to educate the world a long time ago. They'll buy or build some fancy inline signal adjust unit and chase their failing gauges. It's just a matter of time until they realize it wasn't a set it and forget it add on.
 
There is a vender(Dixie Restorations I think) who is putting together a group buy on sending units. They are supposed to be made by the same company who made the original ones. That's really all I know about it. There is a thread on Moparts about it.(in the New Products section)
 
The connector is hidden by the fuel tube in that sellers photo.
As far as I know the only difference in a 50 dollar sender and a 100 dollar sender is materials used. Stainless steel being the higher priced.
The very least expensive sender has a plastic float instead of brass.
 
If you have an aftermarket gauge, would it not be better if you went with an aftermarket sender ?

I thought I read somewhere that the mopar fuel gauge were specific to the senders ?

ian.
 
Stock fuel gauge and dash with add on procomp gauges
if I ever get this thing together.#-o
 
darn...wondering if aftermarket sender will work with aftermarket gauge...
 
I bought one of those $45. 3/8" stainless sending units. It has worked great with my stock dash.
Ted
 
The problem with the repop sending units is current quality control standards. If the unit reads the correct ohms at the empty position and the correct ohms at the full position - it passes. It doesn't matter what it reads anywhere between the empty and full limits of the float arm. So, it's a crap shoot. In the past, I've tried bending the float arm, used a programmable gauge with no change in results.
 
I was in contact with the company that sold me my gauges...even though they are "generic" , they have 3 models...one for Chrysler..they think they sold me one for a chebby...that would make a difference...unfortunately, I have to pull the cluster completely out to change gauges...argh...
 
burdar said:
There is a vender(Dixie Restorations I think) who is putting together a group buy on sending units. They are supposed to be made by the same company who made the original ones. That's really all I know about it. There is a thread on Moparts about it.(in the New Products section)
Click to expand...




i got one of theres,no better than the cheap ebay ones
 
grassy said:
If you have an aftermarket gauge, would it not be better if you went with an aftermarket sender ?

I thought I read somewhere that the mopar fuel gauge were specific to the senders ?

ian.
Click to expand...

i was wondering this too....

also, why cant someone say screw it and try this idea? by using an aftermarket universal sender installed on top of the tank...

http://www.hotrodhotline.com/installing-fuel-gauge-and-sender#.VN4A5ShiEy5

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/mode=prod/prd276.htm
 
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