Almost blew up Turbo Slant
So I decided to turbocharge my '65 Dart's stock 225 slant six. It ran great! 15 pounds of boost and it could beat out stocker small blocks. It started smoking quite a bit, and burned 2 quarts of oil in a day. Pulled the motor and decided I wanted to do a twin turbo small block, but then recently changed my mind back to a hypo turbo slant six. Discovered my motor is a factory replacement (no vin) and its a '70 motor, which by chance happens to be the best motor and head to build. Started dissecting it and found the head gasket was blown in 3 places... Thought that was the problem.
I pulled the oil pan and flipped the motor and pulled the oil tube off. When it came off, chunks of metal fell out of it. Aluminum chunks. Knocked all the Pistons out and didn't find one piston damaged.... but ALL SIX Pistons were completely broken/cracked. At least this was just for fun. This time I'm going all out on the build. No shortcuts.
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Glad to hear the next permutation will have forged internals. I think anytime the boost goes much over 10 pounds, they (forged pistons and rods) are needed.
Wiseco has some forged aluminum pistons that are .045"-over that have the pin location that will match up with the 198, K-1, forged H-beam rod (7.05"-long.) It's a matched set, and comes with a set of low-drag, thin rings, so that all you have to do, once the block is bored and finish-honed, is to set the ring end-gap. (.022"-.025").
I would advise you to investigate some 220,000-psi ARP-brand, head studs; they are good insurance against head gasket failure. O-rings can be cut and installed more easily BEFORE the block is put into the car. Iskenderian has a dandy O-ring cutter they will rent you...
The rods and pistons, with rings, are total of about $1,000.00, but it's good insurance, and will make possible some high boost adventures, later on...:D
Both Ryan Peterson and Tom Wolfe have that setup and they both run 28 pounds of boost in their 500HP+ motors...
I have that combination of parts in my motor and it is 231 cubic inches with no milling of the mating surface of the head or block, and yields a true (measured) compression ratio of 9:1.... about right.
Good luck!:cheers:
