Almost blew up Turbo Slant

Bill Dedman said
Glad to hear the next permutation will have forged internals. I think anytime the boost goes much over 10 pounds, they (forged pistons and rods) are needed.

Wiseco has some forged aluminum pistons that are .045"-over that have the pin location that will match up with the 198, K-1, forged H-beam rod (7.05"-long.) It's a matched set, and comes with a set of low-drag, thin rings, so that all you have to do, once the block is bored and finish-honed, is to set the ring end-gap. (.022"-.025").

I would advise you to investigate some 220,000-psi ARP-brand, head studs; they are good insurance against head gasket failure. O-rings can be cut and installed more easily BEFORE the block is put into the car. Iskenderian has a dandy O-ring cutter they will rent you...

The rods and pistons, with rings, are total of about $1,000.00, but it's good insurance, and will make possible some high boost adventures, later on...:D

Both Ryan Peterson and Tom Wolfe have that setup and they both run 28 pounds of boost in their 500HP+ motors...
I have that combination of parts in my motor and it is 231 cubic inches with no milling of the mating surface of the head or block, and yields a true (measured) compression ratio of 9:1.... about right.

Good luck!:cheers:

Personal opinion: Wiseco/K1 combo is overpriced and overrated. All they (or any other company for that matter) had to do was make a simple forged piston, but they made a $1000 piston/rod combo that you can't use one without the other. :violent1:

Alternative: https://www.flatlanderracing.com/index.html (Rebuild kits section in sidebar>High performance rebuild kit>Chrysler) $970 for pretty much EVERYTHING except for a cam, and the pistons are custom forged ones with thin metric rings being a $130 option.

Couple of other things, why are 220,000psi studs so much more special than 200k ones? Cuz ARP has the 200k ones in stock, and most likely it'd be more economical than having a custom set made.

And... a 9.1 compression would be pretty close to the last thing I'd want if I were building a boosted slant, and apparently others feel the same because if I remember correctly, Tom runs a CUSTOM piston with his K1 rods that puts him somewhere around low 8s, maybe even high 7s. Pretty sure I read that over on the turbo forums.
Another runs a .100 copper gasket to lower compression. Are you sure Ryan really runs a 9:1?

Oh, and

Landons65Dart said
Discovered my motor is a factory replacement (no vin) and its a '70 motor, which by chance happens to be the best motor and head to build.[/ATTACH]

What do you mean? Does it have 'BH' stamped somewhere on the block? Those are the only 'best' blocks that I know of, supposed to have thicker walls. Heads (as long as they don't have the dimple in the chamber) are really just a matter of preferrance as far as I know. Some like the drool-tube with its lighter weight and more spark plug choices, some like the peanut head for its ability to be ported out more and not leak from the spark plug tubes.