Engine cam break-in - What should I do with my 340?

BTW, those "buttons" dont actually touch. Theres quite a bit of room between them at especially at the time of firing. The button on the end of the rotor is often referred to as the rotor tip, and the button on the cap is usually shortened to tower. If I have misunderstood your terminology, than my post may be in error. But if you dont understand my terminology, you can refer to here.
Hope thats clearer than mud.
And if you are referencing post #11, and calling those heavy black points in the pic, buttons, then the previous post still applys, because the picture fails to include the trigger/ vane relationship that needs to be synchronized to it.
And I guess I should add this; Going back to your post,#15, if, and only,if your set-up is currently correctly set with engine at top of compression on #1, and any one reluctor vane is more or less exactly across from the magnetic trigger metal core-piece, then she is real close to correctly set up. I say" more or less exactly across" because its just close. The exact moment of firing occurs when the magnetic field set up by the trigger is first sensed/interupted by the approaching reluctor vane. (In that sense it operates just as points do.Its just a sophisticated switch.The ECU just translates that switching action into a,command to fire,with matching power,that the coil can use.) When you rotate the dizzy to fire the coil you are fine tuning that moment.

-If dads carb bolts on to your manifold, and it is working correctly, you can borrow it for the break-in period, and even after. At 2000rpm, and light throttle applications, your engine is operating on the low speed circuits(easily tuned with screws). This means no jetting is required, and no tear-down. Just be sure to return things back, so dad wont get pissed.And be absolutely sure no fuel leaks, anywhere. You cant blame a fire on anything or anybody else,ESPECIALLY NOT DAD OR HIS CARB.
-Speaking of returning things: Timing. Earlier during break-in, you may have experimented with twisting the dizzy around. Well you more or less established the timing that the engine wants at break-in speed. This is a good target for you to incorporate during establishment of the other timing parameters. Bear in mind the total power timing needs to be limited to what the fuel used will support in your combo. Detonation is to be avoided at all costs. Instead of tuning to a number, let the engine tell you what it wants.
-Generally, iron headed, open chambered, sbms will ask for power timing of 34 to 37 degrees, at "normal" engine temps.Aluminum, or quench heads, are often happy with a couple to several, less. On the street, my a$$ dyno cant tell the difference between optimum and 3 or 4 less. However, 3 or 4 less in the midrange is easily noticed. And 3 or 4 less at idle can make or break your tune.So if youre building a streeter, concentrate your time on the idle/off idle, and sub 3000rpm timings. Track cars are somewhat easier; WOT timing,idle timing close, all in before launch, good to go. Fine-tune later.Streeters will come alive with a snappy spark tune. And do not neglect the vacuum advance timing. There is a world in there, that a lot of guys dont explore and as a result, are really missing out. Ok,track cars dont care.
-When you get it right, she will be a pleasure.