Still Too Hot

Thanks Rusty,
-I would do everything possible (re-engineer the rad yoke if necessary) to run a mechanical fan, before I would consider electrics on a streeter.
-The following rant is for those who actually chose the electrics for their streeter, over an oem type.
-Some say the mechanical fan sucks 7hp, others 15hp. To that I answer, a heat-seized motor makes ZERO hp. And those numbers are estimated at the track at WOT, full load, full rpm. And just how many times are you there during the lifetime of the motor? And do you really want to risk your 6 or 7 or maybe 8 thousand dollar,engine, on an electric fan that can fail without any notice whatsoever. And if you think that little pos dash gauge or any after-market electric gauge is gonna save the day, HAH. You better tape it to your eyeball! By the time that thing starts registering, it will probably be too late. They are notoriously slow. Frustratingly slow. Impossible to save your motor slow.
-And in the end you are just trading one form of energy for another. The power to run those electrics has to come from somewhere. And when it comes from around the corner and up the street, it loses its efficiency and costs more.
-So its no electrics for me.
-But, you might ask, what if I throw a belt? I say, who engineered the drive system? Or you might ask, What if the belt breaks? I say, Whos maintaining the drive system? You might ask, what if the clutch fails?I say dont run a clutch. Thing is, Ive never seen an instantaneous viscous clutch failure. They usually give lots of advance warning, including leaking.This is where that dash gauge can actually be of value, if you give it more than an occasional glance.I have seen a couple of thermostatic clutches quit in the no-drive position.One was obviously gummed up, so we are back to maintenance.
-Heres something else, concerning that clutch fan;Most adequately sized and well- maintained, cooling systems dont need a fan with good airflow over it. This means there are 2 times the fan needs to work; From idle to about 30mph, and again when working harder at high speeds. Well guess what, thats how the T-fans work. Hot air through the rad; fan blows hard. Cold air; fan freewheels.So the only times its costing you hp, is under 30 mph( where you already have an abundance of extra hp), or when speeding. Which is illegal. And youre still not at WOT, so theres plenty of reserve HP.
-Theres one other time it can cost. Thats at the racetrack. But heres the thing;You have options. You can even take the belt off, if you dare. If you stage with a cool motor, the fan may not even start pulling til the top of the track, or maybe not until pitroad. Winner!
-So all this talk about lost hp is just smoke in the wind. What streeter runs Wot, full load, full rpm long enough to even contemplate 7 to 15 hp? Run a mechanical with a clutch if you like, and, fugetabowdit.
-I run the T-clutch. Ford, if you must know. Probably 10 years at least. 7200 shifts, no belts thrown. All stock gauges. Yes Oppie, it is possible.
- Now to those who just have to run an electric, or just want to; Um sorry for the wasted time.
-As always, just MHO, and what works for me.