Stock oil pan and HV oil pump?

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I was thinking about that as well, but could I just weld in some baffles or something? I was looking at a kevco pan, they have good ground clearance and a crank scraper, but I don't think it'll be very easy to get here, or cheap. I was also looking at milodon pans and the one I was looking at didn't have room for a windage tray.

And one reason I want oil pressure is because I am running a solid roller camshaft, my lifters have pressure oiling, but still want as much oil to them as I can.

Yes you could weld in some baffles in your stock pan. Be real careful cause the pan is thin and you can blow through it pretty easy. From what I've read a windage tray really isn't needed with a deep pan that has baffles.
 
Was kinda slow responding here, sorry about that. But I think I made my decision. I will use a stock pan, weld in some baffles to keep the oil in the sump if I ever get the car to hook good, and I will also run a half liter more oil. I will be running a windage tray in addition as well for better oil control.

I am still thinking about using the HV oil pump, but may just get a new regular pump.
 
Test everything! 426 small block with high volume pump running pressure fed pin roller lifters with a 8 qt oil pan. Put just 4 qts of oil in the pan and primed the engine with a speed wrench. 65 psi and ran out of oil in the pan and started sucking air. Blocked the oil feed holes in the lifters and primed the engine with a speed wrench. Picked up 10 psi oil pressure and never ran out of oil still using 4 qts of oil in the pan.

Not saying anything was bad, because with the full 8 quarts the engine spun to 6700 rpm and never lost oil pressure before blocking the oil holes. But when hot rodding and your gut tells you to check something, check it!
 
Test everything! 426 small block with high volume pump running pressure fed pin roller lifters with a 8 qt oil pan. Put just 4 qts of oil in the pan and primed the engine with a speed wrench. 65 psi and ran out of oil in the pan and started sucking air. Blocked the oil feed holes in the lifters and primed the engine with a speed wrench. Picked up 10 psi oil pressure and never ran out of oil still using 4 qts of oil in the pan.

Not saying anything was bad, because with the full 8 quarts the engine spun to 6700 rpm and never lost oil pressure before blocking the oil holes. But when hot rodding and your gut tells you to check something, check it!

Why would you want to block the oil feed holes in the lifters? dont you want them to get oil? Definitely dont want to suck air.

So you are saying that more oil capacity may be needed with the roller lifters?
 
Why would you want to block the oil feed holes in the lifters? dont you want them to get oil? Definitely dont want to suck air.

So you are saying that more oil capacity may be needed with the roller lifters?

Dart, don't jump to conclusions and think a minute.

Some solid lifters have no oil feed holes. Some feed oil to the push rods. Some feed oil to the push rods and cam face. Some feed oil to the roller pins and the push rods. You must be smarter than your lifters.

Most roller pins are splash oiled, some have the pins pressure fed. I blocked the pressure feed to these pins and they are now oiled as normal, which is the leakage by the lifter body/bore and what is thrown up off the rotating assembly. I have a video (that I'm not posting) of the quantities of oil flowing from the pressure fed pins compared to the oil from the standard rollers I put in the lifter bores next to them for a test. To me I had three choices, bush the lifter bores ($800), purchase new lifters ($500) or modify the present lifters ($3.57).

I want them to get sufficient oil, not in my opinion excessive oil. We're running pressure fed pin oiled lifters in a 572 Hemi but it has bushed lifter bores with a small feed hole in the bushing. Shouldn't be a problem but we will test it without the intake manifold on while we pre-lube. I will now always pre-lube before I install the intake manifold.

I'm not telling anyone what to do. I'm reporting what I've discovered. Some roller lifters pass much more oil over the camshaft than others do. All are free to come to their own oil flow conclusions for their engines.
 
Dart, don't jump to conclusions and think a minute.

Some solid lifters have no oil feed holes. Some feed oil to the push rods. Some feed oil to the push rods and cam face. Some feed oil to the roller pins and the push rods. You must be smarter than your lifters.

Most roller pins are splash oiled, some have the pins pressure fed. I blocked the pressure feed to these pins and they are now oiled as normal, which is the leakage by the lifter body/bore and what is thrown up off the rotating assembly. I have a video (that I'm not posting) of the quantities of oil flowing from the pressure fed pins compared to the oil from the standard rollers I put in the lifter bores next to them for a test. To me I had three choices, bush the lifter bores ($800), purchase new lifters ($500) or modify the present lifters ($3.57).

I want them to get sufficient oil, not in my opinion excessive oil. We're running pressure fed pin oiled lifters in a 572 Hemi but it has bushed lifter bores with a small feed hole in the bushing. Shouldn't be a problem but we will test it without the intake manifold on while we pre-lube. I will now always pre-lube before I install the intake manifold.

I'm not telling anyone what to do. I'm reporting what I've discovered. Some roller lifters pass much more oil over the camshaft than others do. All are free to come to their own oil flow conclusions for their engines.

Okay I see what you mean. Ill keep the intake off when I prime the motor to see how much oil I am getting up top.
 
I am kinda leaning towards two milodon pans now instead of a stock pan. Just deciding between the two now. I know there is also the road race pan that was mentioned earlier, but I really dont want to spend that much on the pan. Only problem now is the first pan listed holds 8 quarts, but sits 8.75 inches down and allows for a windage tray. Where the other pan holds 7 quarts and sits 7.75 inches, so an inch higher, but on milodons site it says a windage tray wont fit. (Summit says it will but I trust milodons description more).

The 7 quart pan is just a tad lower than a stock pan which is good, but would using a windage tray be beneficial? The 8 quart pan is lower, but still 1.5 inches higher than my old moroso pan.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-30940
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-30941
 
I ran a HV oil pump with a stock pan for a long long time 7800 rpm through the traps never lost any oil pressure I would pour an extra quart in it when I changed the oil. A lot of people claim that the extra oil ads extra windage that brings a loss of power , and that may be so but a bearing going dry looses a lot more power. As far as the oil holes facing up on the lifters if it isn't a roller it doesn't matter which way they go in they turn once the engine is running anyway so put them in any way you want
 
Yeah from what I understand the solid lifters change things a bit.

And the lifters could only be installed on way, they wouldnt fit the other way as the notch in the tie bar would hit the valley, so I just installed them the way it made sense. So I think they are installed with the oil holes the right way.
 
What brand do you have? I have comp solid rollers in mine I don't have an oil hole that I'm aware of they just have a band machined in them
 
So I changed my mind on the pan...again lol. I ended up going with a milodon 7 quart pan.

This is it. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-30941

This pan has baffles in it, and on milodons website it says that a windage tray wont fit, but I phoned and they verified that the new ones can fit one.

I think I may have found a windage tray, new isn't happening around here for whatever reason, so I found a good used one. Also is a 340 and a 360 windage tray the same?

Would I see any real benefit by adding one to this pan?
 
I used a windage tray but not sure from what I read that it's really needed. I did open the slots a bit more. These pans seem to be used a lot
Not sure if they are better worse or the same
http://www.kevkoracing.com/mopar.htm

I originally wanted on of those pans actually but had a hard time getting one for a decent price up here in canada. Exchange rate is crap now and there are not retailers that stock those pans, so a milodon pan was really the only option. Well moroso too but I kept scraping that one lol
 
So I changed my mind on the pan...again lol. I ended up going with a milodon 7 quart pan.

This is it. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-30941

This pan has baffles in it, and on milodons website it says that a windage tray wont fit, but I phoned and they verified that the new ones can fit one.

I think I may have found a windage tray, new isn't happening around here for whatever reason, so I found a good used one. Also is a 340 and a 360 windage tray the same?

Would I see any real benefit by adding one to this pan?

The 340 and 360 windage trays were not the same, but the Mopar Performance windage trays fit both. The 360 main bolts are spaced farther apart than 273, 318 and 340 main bolts. The Mopar Performance windage tray had slots instead of holes so it would fit both. There is a benefit, and I run one in everything I build unless you have a real race pan. That is not a real race pan.
 
The 340 and 360 windage trays were not the same, but the Mopar Performance windage trays fit both. The 360 main bolts are spaced farther apart than 273, 318 and 340 main bolts. The Mopar Performance windage tray had slots instead of holes so it would fit both. There is a benefit, and I run one in everything I build unless you have a real race pan. That is not a real race pan.

Didnt know that, well could I just elongate the holes in the stock 340 windage tray to fit the 360 mains? Because I was having alot of trouble finding the mopar performance ones in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Didnt know that, well could I just elongate the holes in the stock 340 windage tray to fit the 360 mains? Because I was having alot of trouble finding the mopar performance ones in a reasonable amount of time.

I think that is all the factory did. I do not think I have any 360 or the Mopar Performance windage trays left to check. I'd slot both sides out to keep it centered. Have you tried your windage try to see if it fits yet?
 
I think that is all the factory did. I do not think I have any 360 or the Mopar Performance windage trays left to check. I'd slot both sides out to keep it centered. Have you tried your windage try to see if it fits yet?

I test fit the windage tray, and the holes dont line up, but only slightly. I will just elongate the holes a bit on both sides in order to make it fit. I dont expect to have any problems, I will just spin the motor over a few times to make sure I dont have any clearance issues.
 
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