Help me stop!

-If the caliper cannot move outwards far enough to prevent the pads from dragging, you will need to figure out why and correct it. During the wearing of the pads, the caliper will move inboard. There has to be a system in the design to allow this.The calipers must be free on the guides. Not enough to rattle, but free non-the-less.I would rather mine rattle than stick.There is no mechanical way for the outboard pad to retract. You have to depend on the rotors to knock them back after every application, and seal retraction on the pistons to allow it, and the guide system must be free, not a little rough.I usually leave my wheel bearing adjustment a little on the loose side of the spec., to help.
-Like I said Im not familiar with the Scarebird system. They could have one of three common mounting systems. If,as a previous poster mentioned, they are shim-able, then thats part of your answer.Move them out to help center the loaded caliper on the rotor. But the "ways" have to be clear, and reasonably smooth.
-Perhaps a picture of the exploded assy would help. I will do some digging.
-Ok, so I went to their site and found that their set-up is pretty much the same as the GM system, in that the calipers slide on bushings. So yes they will require centering. First remove the pins and lubricate the o-rings with silicon o-ring lube.A little dab will do ya.Work the bushings back and forth.If theyre tight,it may be due to corrosion in the grooves so pop them out and have a look.Sometimes the bushings need to be polished. If the O-rings are swollen from a previous wrong grease, replace them.Next, push the piston back a bit. Reassemble everything, but just run the bolts in to seat every thing.Now go step on the brake to cinch everything up. Next grab the rotor and give it a spin. A no-spin means shimming is required. So back off each bolt 1/2 turn, pull/pry the caliper outboard,and retest. Repeat as often as may be necessary to near free-spin the rotor.Dont confuse outboard drag with inboard drag A little drag is permissible. Now,with a thin-bladed screwdriver, push those little bushings outboard away from the brackets. The gap you see is the minimum shim size.The MINIMUM. A little more is Ok.
-The caliper only needs to be moved outboard far enough to provide a small amount of clearance with new pads and to ensure the pin-bolt heads do not interfere with the caliper sliding motion.
-So after shimming, pump up the brakes, and release. Go back and check for a free turning rotor. A small amount of drag is permissible, and normal on this type of set-up. Just make sure that by pulling or prying the rotor outboardly, and releasing it, to withdraw the outboard pad, and allow seal retraction to work on the inboard side, it will free-spin.Check your wheel bearing adjustment.The spec on that is zero to .003 axial inch.Like I said I go to the loose side with slider calipers. It helps to knock back the outer pad, to reduce drag to a minimum,(saves pad wear, rotor heating,and fuel).If you dont like the slight extra pedal travel this sometimes allows, then tighten her up a bit. But honestly, the spec.IMHO is pretty tight. I run my slider calipers at up to .007. The KH system on my S is a fixed caliper and does not need the assistance, so I run it tighter. I Think I got this right.
Ok so, if you find your Scarebird instructions and shims, and its different from my helps, follow theirs/Ignore mine.Good luck.