gear oil, reuse or not

-
Snake

Snake

Mopar Nut
Joined
May 22, 2006
Messages
9,452
Reaction score
489
Location
Belleville Canada
I have started to remove the pig,I loosened up the 10 bolts up last night and let it drip into a deep pan,this oil only has 2 tho miles.reuse or buy new. thanks,not looking forward to lifting the next pig up :pale:.
 
If it's clean I don't see why not reuse it, typically gear oil is good to around 30 thousand, IMO.

It is a maintenance item, some will disagree, but I change mine in my truck, both front and rear 25 to 30 thousand.


If you're dropping in a suregrip, don't forget the friction modifier!

Also, if you have a small magnet that you can stick in the bottom of the case, that is a plus, it's not a necessity, but it can catch any shavings that come from normal R&P wear.. Just keep it to the side that the ring gear isn't on.
 
Thanksssssssssssss Bad, YA i am using the ford stuff,never thought about the mag tip.:coffee2:
 
cwatts said:
Do you have to pull the axles to get the pig out ?
Click to expand...

Snake said:
Yup sure do.Just did it.I am removing old 1 leg and putting in an suregrip
Click to expand...



Make sure you line up the splines in the suregrip unit, before you install it. And try not to turn anything when you do install it into the housing.

There are two sets of splines the axle needs to seat into on both sides, or the axle retainer won't quite contact the flange.

Also, pull the axles all the way out, don't let them hang in the rear, it can damage the inner seal and create a leak.

Same goes for putting the axles back in, use caution so you don't cut the seal with the splines on the axle.


DON'T forget to set your axle end play after you button it all up!!!!
 
Thanks again for the tips, i just brought in an axel and slid it in until i head a metal sound like clink lol you think it went all the way in.
 
Probably, you'll know when you try and bolt the retainer to the flange, if it doesn't contact the flange by hand, then the axle probably isn't seated. DO NOT try and pull it in with the bolts.

Are you running the stock Timken tapered roller bearings?

Also, check and make sure the thrust buttons or block is in the suregrip, if it is, and you have OEM bearings then you're good to go.
 
Yes using oem bearings in the pic are those the blocks you referring to.
 

Attachments

  • 004.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 228
  • 005.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 220
I hate pressing that pig up in there, have a nut in your hand while you do it to slip on whatever stud you hook, hopefully a top one. When you slide the axles in, youll feel the splines start, just give it a little twist and itll engage the 2nd (like a convertor) if not already lined up. Youll hear a hollow thunk when they seat. If diff fluid is good for 30K, im going to need to go and change mine about 5 times in my truck! :)

The block is a little metal puck between the axle ends, youll see daylight through the splines if its not there.
 
Yup, those are thrust buttons you see in there. The axles will butt against them when you install, and then you can set your axle end play.

Good to go!!!
 
pishta said:
If diff fluid is good for 30K, im going to need to go and change mine about 5 times in my truck!
Click to expand...

Most people don't change it and have no issues. I have done it in the past. But it is a maintenance item.

I change mine, regularly (30 to 35K) after I lost my R&P in a DANA rear, and it cost me 1200 bucks to get rebuilt.
 
If he were to have the green bearings instead of tapered would he need to take the thrust buttons out of 3d member? Thanks Dustin
 
Dartsun said:
Thank you. Maybe that explains my rears chatter around tight corners. Dustin
Click to expand...

Some folks have said they didn't take them out and had no problems. It is recommended to remove them.

Which do you have clutch or cone?

Do you have the friction modifier additive in it?

If you don't that might be your issue.

Friction modifier is kind of a misnomer, it doesn't increase friction, rather it reduces it to allow the clutches/cones to slip a little under normal driving conditions to help alleviate the chatter.
 
Bad Sport said:
Some folks have said they didn't take them out and had no problems. It is recommended to remove them.

Which do you have clutch or cone?

Do you have the friction modifier additive in it?

If you don't that might be your issue.

Friction modifier is kind of a misnomer, it doesn't increase friction, rather it reduces it to allow the clutches/cones to slip a little under normal driving conditions to help alleviate the chatter.
Click to expand...

It is a clutch type sure grip that has had friction modifier added. Thanks for respond. Dustin
 
The early green bearings with the plate crimp around the bearing sold by MP required you to remove the thrust buttons. The newer style with the snap rings don't require removal.
 
Bad Sport said:
Let us know how it goes.

On to the garage to rebuild my Demon carb.
Click to expand...

OK a good buddy drop buy to slide the pig in,and I did the rest the axles lined right up :) now i just have to get a dial to adjust the axle play,thanks to all that help especially you Bad Sport.:burnout:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top