finally results on 69 Valiant

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What a great "thinking out of the box" job you did on this car. I love it! I've got a LOT of cars (I'm over at forbbodies only) and I'm going to start to experiment on two (my first) A bodies I'm picking up soon.

Not going to be track cars, just one of those "wow, WTF is that?" cars.

The first, and I know I'm going to get push back on this because of the torque I might get on the body and frame, is a '68 DART GT CONVERTIBLE. I've got a ton of 440's ton build here on the farm and will decode one to see if I have a '68 first off.

I've got a couple questions, and of course any tips and ideas you have would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?
2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
4) What about rear suspension?
5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

I'm sure this has all been asked and covered before, so if you just want to point me to some threads I can spend the time researching without bothering a lot of people. I'm a serious nut case that builds/restores 1-2 cars a year on my own for my collection.

If you're interested, you can see more here, http://www.grumpys-garage.com but I don't update with current projects like I do my Face Book page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpys-Garage-MuscleCars/200941343261937?ref=hl

Thanks!
Dave
 
What a great "thinking out of the box" job you did on this car. I love it! I've got a LOT of cars (I'm over at forbbodies only) and I'm going to start to experiment on two (my first) A bodies I'm picking up soon.

Not going to be track cars, just one of those "wow, WTF is that?" cars.

The first, and I know I'm going to get push back on this because of the torque I might get on the body and frame, is a '68 DART GT CONVERTIBLE. I've got a ton of 440's ton build here on the farm and will decode one to see if I have a '68 first off.

I've got a couple questions, and of course any tips and ideas you have would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

1) Should I just get the motor mount kit from Schumacher ALONG WITH the headers they sell for the conversion?
2) I know I have to convert front brakes to disc, but what about suspension? Where did you get your kit from or did you build it?
3) Are heavier torsion bars readily available and suggested?
4) What about rear suspension?
5) I'm sure I'm going to have to put in a A Body 8 3/4 housing correct?
6) I want to put a 727 behind it, will this clear the body tunnel?
7) WHERE DO I GET A HINGED HOOD WITH LARGE SCOOP OR THE SCOOP I'VE SEEN ON A LOT OF GTS CARS?

I'm sure this has all been asked and covered before, so if you just want to point me to some threads I can spend the time researching without bothering a lot of people. I'm a serious nut case that builds/restores 1-2 cars a year on my own for my collection.

If you're interested, you can see more here, http://www.grumpys-garage.com but I don't update with current projects like I do my Face Book page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Grumpys-Garage-MuscleCars/200941343261937?ref=hl

Thanks!
Dave

There are several ways to do an A body this is my last one and I wanted to stretch my abilities - I used the HDK tubular front suspension- K frame and have a Dana 60 out back with Mopar XHD leaf springs but they may change depending on ride height - 727 is fine - I like the Schumaker headers because nothing is hanging down -using the stock column shifter had to rework the torque bar to fit and work proper
 
working on interior notice these Valiant 100's are so cheap no rear armrest
 

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whose insulation is that....forms extremely well

is it light?....most weigh a ton.
 
whose insulation is that....forms extremely well

is it light?....most weigh a ton.

Air bubbles between foil so yes it's light maybe 1/4" thick 48" wide in roll and hell I'm old and don't remember anything about it purchased for project before this one maybe 3 years ago and it works great for heat and noise
 
Got carpet in and test fit rear seat. As I bought this car pretty much in pieces I have to study a few details. Most 2 door rear seat bases are square on the corners but this one is rounded like for a 4 door. According to legendary both the 4 and 2 door use the same seat. I presume cheaper way to produce the Valiant 100. So I'll have to do some eatra covering of the floor
 

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at least it's rolling now getting closer every day the motor's not a 383 but a built 400 and as you know there is no 400 pie tin tires are 235/65/16 rear and 205/60/16 front
 

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check out my dash mount controller still need to tweak
 

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working on interior notice these Valiant 100's are so cheap no rear armrest
you can put arm rest in the back just have to buy them cause the provisions are there to put them in (where the screws goes in to hold them on plus the door panels have the circles to drill or punch out for them) I am making a clone signet out of my 100 and puttting all the trim on it that they came with.. only way anyone will know except you guys is the vin on the car..:burnout:
 
you can put arm rest in the back just have to buy them cause the provisions are there to put them in (where the screws goes in to hold them on plus the door panels have the circles to drill or punch out for them) I am making a clone signet out of my 100 and puttting all the trim on it that they came with.. only way anyone will know except you guys is the vin on the car..:burnout:

Thanks but I like the plain Jane
 
As with any build that's hot rodded (different than norm) there's always do and redo I didn't like the stance that I ended up with so I will be tearing it down to change the front coil over shocks and rear leaf spring perches and possible leaf springs
 
If you DO NOT want to buy 12" shocks / springs

I have (in stock) an upper shock mount that is a direct replacement that will raise the front exactly 1"........unless you have already.

for you....no charge.
 
As with any build that's hot rodded (different than norm) there's always do and redo I didn't like the stance that I ended up with so I will be tearing it down to change the front coil over shocks and rear leaf spring perches and possible leaf springs

I am always tweeking on mine.....and I love every minute of it.

Sure beats sitting in the couch.....
 
apart waiting for items to correct the stance
 

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do the extended shock mounts look like they will do the trick for you?......sorry it took so long.

:)
 
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