daliant
Befuddled
OMG! you spelled internet wrong! LOL
Pulling the inner valve spring at cam break in?
- Thread starter Dartfan71
- Start date
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RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
You're welcome.
"OMG"?
Glad I could provide you with such a profound moment of hilarity.
Carry on with your obviously, intelectual and substance filled day.
"OMG"?
Glad I could provide you with such a profound moment of hilarity.
Carry on with your obviously, intelectual and substance filled day.
daliant
Befuddled
Umm... I was trying to be sarcastic, maybe add a little humor to this intense thread. Carry on, all is well...
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
lol, gotcha!
I should have spelled it "inner net"....get it? Inner net? Inner spring? Hahaha!
Ok....I'm done. ;)
I should have spelled it "inner net"....get it? Inner net? Inner spring? Hahaha!
Ok....I'm done. ;)
I didn't see anything intense or any type of pissing contest coming from those who recommended leaving the spring out.
It's sound advice. Just because it's something you might not want to hear, doesn't mean it's a pissing contest, intense or wrong.
Regardless of spring pressure, if there's a dual spring on a flat tappet cam, "I" would never recommend leaving the inner spring in during break in. The last thing I want to do is cause somebody heartache over something so simple by giving them bad advice.
I think those of you who think that is "intense" might need to put your big girl panties on. This hobby has never been for the faint of heart. It's always consisted of real car people who are badass and get things done in ways no one else would ever think of.
I would suggest those of you who think that is intense find another hobby, as you are not good representatives of the automotive world. We don't need a bunch of pansy asses that get their panties wadded up over something so trivial.
Good advice has been given on this thread. Leave inner springs out on dual springs setups for flat tappet break in. That's really all there is to it.
It's sound advice. Just because it's something you might not want to hear, doesn't mean it's a pissing contest, intense or wrong.
Regardless of spring pressure, if there's a dual spring on a flat tappet cam, "I" would never recommend leaving the inner spring in during break in. The last thing I want to do is cause somebody heartache over something so simple by giving them bad advice.
I think those of you who think that is "intense" might need to put your big girl panties on. This hobby has never been for the faint of heart. It's always consisted of real car people who are badass and get things done in ways no one else would ever think of.
I would suggest those of you who think that is intense find another hobby, as you are not good representatives of the automotive world. We don't need a bunch of pansy asses that get their panties wadded up over something so trivial.
Good advice has been given on this thread. Leave inner springs out on dual springs setups for flat tappet break in. That's really all there is to it.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Lighten up Francis.
I am as light as can be. I am not the one trying to be the gubmint. Just trying to give good advice. Go tell somebody else what to do cause it ain't gonna be me.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Lol. Ok, man. Keep on keepin on.
NukeBass
Well-Known Member
Random question: Why is it okay to run the engine to break in the cam with just the outer spring if you are supposed to have both springs to run it under normal operation? Does it have to do with just running it for a short time with no real load or limited RPM?
That's right. Break in is a short time, also you would not normally run the engine at break in anywhere near the RPM limit the dual springs could stand, so there's no danger of engine damage resulting. Normally, I vary break in RPM between 2K and 4500. For dual springs, I like to bump the minimum RPM up to around 3K to assure good splash lube.
NukeBass
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks. I almost know enough to be dangerous 
Cool, thanks. I almost know enough to be dangerous
Me too.
j par
Well-hung Member
*disclosure* TAKE THE INNER SPRINGS OUT !! with that said there's probably a half a dozen arguments not to also. let me give you a scenario- you do all the right things including taking the inner springs out, have plenty of cam lube, correct brake in oil, and then you go to fire it up. you're pumping the gas turning the timing to get it right not wanting to crank it too much, pump it a few more times. try it again and she comes to life, but a little too hard because of all the gas pumping and open throttle and she shoots up to six grand real quick for just one second(remember all those light expensive high compression parts you just put in that motor?) and fling ping a retainer from one of those light springs on that big cam lobe flies off! catastrophic failure! anything could happen! bad luck sucks. it's crazy the things you read when you read the Internet for both arguments just like you're reading the internet right now.
RJK3
8 3/4 Hoarder
Oh boy...
j par
Well-hung Member
Jo Diesel
My other car is a Dodge
I lost 2 cams before I found out about the Zink in oil and when I got my 3rd cam and had to totally go through my engine again, I read in the instructions for my ISKY Vodoo to remove the inner springs during break in. YOU BET YOUR *** I DID !
j par
Well-hung Member
open spring pressure ?? Lift? What was your lash set at for break in? *No zinc?? The reason I ask is because*I'm curious at what point this cam wipe out is happening? Did you know it was gone right away? Or did it take a little time before you noticed? All 3 times conditions were identical besides the inner springs ? *disclosure * TAKE THE INNER SPRINGS OUT ! ! !
j par
Well-hung Member
Where my questions out of line? To hard to answer ? I'm having a hard time with all things being equal, it took three times to take the inner springs out? I'm stubborn, but not that stubborn!
What's an Isky Voodoo?
j par
Well-hung Member
Three cams in a row! This would start to get down to the heart of the question, if we knew if there were any different variables? I'm really really not trying to be smart here. I just really like to get to the heart of the question and exactly where things go catastrophically wrong?
Jo Diesel
My other car is a Dodge
First cam Crane .484 lift 284 duration with lifters and valve springs, installed springs at machine shop when heads done on first motor. Twisted a little to hard. Rebuild a core I had and reused the heads, p412033,Mopar Hydraulic Purple Camshaft,la,SB,NEW, .508 Lift 292 Adv. Duration, Installed this cam, made it bout 3000 miles and I noticed a lifter tick. Readjusted the roller rockers and couple days later tick back. pulled cam and lobe started to go. Changed cam with same one. bout 3000 miles did it again. Pulled motor disasemble clean and all new bearings, New Cam Lunati#638-10200703LK
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kit
Mopar Small Block 273-360
Lift: .494''/.513''
Duration: 271 Deg / 279 Deg
LSA: 112 Deg
RPM Range: 1800-6200 Have about 6000 miles and has been fine.
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kit
Mopar Small Block 273-360
Lift: .494''/.513''
Duration: 271 Deg / 279 Deg
LSA: 112 Deg
RPM Range: 1800-6200 Have about 6000 miles and has been fine.
j par
Well-hung Member
Try and get it to fire up as fast as possible ! Triple check everything ! Get it above 2000 rpm's asap! Very rpm's up to 3000 and back down for 20 minutes. *avoid the temptations to "rap-rap" on the throttle !!* til you get the springs back in.
j par
Well-hung Member
Open spring pressure what was it? Zinc in oil for break in ? AND AFTER??
The key is to sift through the crazy stuff and extract the logical info, then apply it.....
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