Por 15 vs. KBS Rust Seal
Has anyone heard of KBS Rust Seal and how does it compare to Por 15? The guy at the paint store said Por 15 is the same as it was in the beginning. No inprovments. KBS is from the same people that made the first Por 15, But went out on there own, made inprovements and started their own company. So it it any better? It is cheaper.
I know this is an old thread and I AM a KBS Distributor. I won't mention my company or list any links to my sites. I am not here to spam you.
I wanted to respond to several of the replies in an effort to get the users the best outcome regardless of the product they choose to use.
First both POR-15 and KBS RustSeal are closed cell urethanes, never shaken, always stirred. The fact that they are closed cell paints means you have to use thin coats, why? because the paint has to cure throughout it's thickness before the surface seals over unlike a conventional automotive paint where the solvents leach to the surface and evaporate leaving behind a pore in the surface.
The good thing is a closed cell paint leaves a thicker effective layer of paint. With either product you need to end up with 4 to 4.5 mils of paint for automotive applications. If it's applied to thick the solvents won't have enough time to dry out before the surface seals over and the paint will lift from the metal.
Because these are moisture cured products, it's the moisture in the atmosphere that cause the paints to cure. If it's really dry out it will take a long time to cure. Moisture soaked newspapers under your project will solve this. If the humidity is high they can cure so fast, especially with 1 mil or less coats, they may not have time to level out. Humidity levels are important when you apply it.
This is why directions tell you not to paint out of the can!!! Everytime you dip your brush into the can you are introducing oxygen and moisture into the paint in the can which starts the curing process. Rather stir the paint well, use a coffee scoop, so the rim stays clean, and dip out what you need into a glass jar and work from that.
There are a couple of tricks to keep both of these from setting up in the can and lets face it our projects are expensive enough already. I restore old trucks.
1. As mentioned wrap a piece of sarah wrap over the can, then push it down so it touches the paint in the top of the can and then come up over the side of the can and replace the lid
2. My Favorite --Put a self tapping screw with a rubber washer in the lid. Take the lid off and stir well. Replace the lid. Remove the screw and pour out what you need. Go over to your welder and put a puff of argon gas in the hole and replace the screw. The argon is heavier than oxygen so it settles into a layer seperating the moisture containing oxygen from the paint in the can. Body shops keep open cans for two to three years this way. Unopened cans can be put in your freezer for long term storage.
If you have streaks, stir stir and stir some more!
Whats the difference between POR-115 and KBS RustSeal,
- RustSeal is based on about 25 years newer chemistry.
- POR-15 has 0 UV stabillity, RustSeal in all 10 colors has 90% UV stability
- POR-15 always needs a UV stable top coat and RustSeal used somewhere not in direct sunlight, floorpans, chassis, etc has all the UV stabilty it needs and won't need a topcoat. But in direct sunlight, it too needs a 100% UV stable topcoat.
- RustSeal has a custom polyner used to elminate adhesion issues that POR-15 does not have.
- Rustseal huch higher solids content 70% vs 20%.
- RustSeal cost is about 20% less
The difference between RustSeal and Blacktop mentioned in one reply is, RustSeal like POR-15 will give you protection from rust but neither has 100% UV stability. Blacktop is a 100% UV stable chassis topcoat.
I have a truck given to me by a dear friend just before he passed away. A rust encapsulator was used on the bed and it turned out to have an effective life of about 5 years. I don't know whos product it was or how it was applied.
