Por 15, rust oleum, tractor implement paint, what to use on rusted metal

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lee g

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My new project car will be receiving some patch panels and while some of the internal supports are exposed I would like to neutralize and stop the rust that is present. Any ideas on what to use? I have tried Por 15 in the past and followed the directions to a T and rust returned in some areas and peeled away in others. Also want to paint my floor boards and trunk too.
 
The most important thing to remember First get the metal as clean as possible that will help not hurt, then the chemicals. It will also provide a road map of metal that is so bad it MUST be replaced..Rust can fool you into thinking the metal is solid when it isn't.

Good luck
 
I used a product called Rust Bullet. It's a single part product, no mixing. You can brush it on or spray it. Don't get it on your hands, It does not come off easily. Had it all over my hands three days before my daughter's wedding. Finally got it all off morning of. Gets hard as Chinese Arithmetic.
 
POR-15 was a good product but is old technology. I recently spoke with an ex POR-15 employee/chemist and was told that another company has taken the original formula and fixed all the things customers had complained about for years. They have fixed the fish-eye condition, the adhesion over paint problem and increased the shelf life. The new company is named "RUST BLAST".
 
lots good info above. anywhere I can, I use BIG wire cup on right angle grinder to clean best I can. and to find metal I must replace. NOT talking about the exterior of car here. just floors, etc....I have had success ( as some other FABO members with acid product called OSPHO. BUT it can have reaction with some primers, and paints, so test before topcoating with anything. it will clean rusty metal and leave a phosphate coating somewhat. it will take awhile to dry and be "done"...
over the last decades, I have used all kinds of rust inhibitors, mainly on floors, with good success as long as I cleaned the metal ( no scale!). I have gone over this with everything from POR-15, all brands of rust inhibitors, to plain old oil based tractor paint, expoxy primers, etc. all with good success, I ALWAYS topcoat these floors with very durable enamel, and again, tractor paint has served me well... not cheap but $30-35 per gal is good buy for hoe well it works I feel...
on the exterior of the car, I have asked your question to more than a few GOOD bodymen, one in particular does many streetrods, all say sand metal to BARE metal and the go with self etching epoxy primers. none wanted to treat with any rust inhibitor..... maybe they have had trouble with that in past!????
I have used POPHO on very pitted metal, after i sanded it down to bare and pitted metal. the OSPHO has worked well for me as long as I let it dry completely, may take several days. again, epoxy primers vary by acid ( something_), and can react differently. I even called the co for info and all I got was a DUH!
I hate rust so I want to do what I can to at least slow it down! as they say, rust never sleeps!?? LOL hope this helps....
 
I am attempting to replace all metal that has any significant amount of rust damage. Some support structures behind the quarters are difficult to get to so I am applying phosphoric acid then I need to paint it. This is the situation I am asking about. These areas won't see the light of day nor were they originally painted. Am I going to extremes that are unnecessary or is it great protection?
 
Yep I did find out from a rep at the company that I planned on using their epoxy primer on the exterior. He told me if I used phosphoric acid to neutralize the metal DO NOT USE their epoxy primer because of adhesion issues. Just sand, scuff, and spray. He said their epoxy primer already has a small amount of acid in it and it will lift the coating left from the phosphoric acid and cause the paint to peel.
 
Rust bullet has worked very well for me. I used silver, but now comes in other colors and can be topcoated if desired.
 
I'm using Eastwoods rust encapsulator on my duster project and my buddy is using it on his 63 f100 project... seems to be good stuff but I haven't given it the test of time yet .
I am trying to remove all rust either mechanically ,chemically ,and or electrically before using it so I feel pretty confident in the areas I do use it.
 
yes as lee g said, the phosphoric acid and epoxy that contains some acid is the problem. I've used expoxy primer from TCOP Global, I believe its their " restoration" shop label ( I think). I had to use the P A because the metal was piotted and sanding didn't clean it as I wanted. I used the Phospo, le it dry completely, wiped it down with laquer thinner, primed with the TCP brand epoxy, (some refer to it as a hybrid epoxy?), went over it with urethane high build primer/ sealer, so far no problem.
did this on one car about 2 months ago, the other one 2 weeks ago.
I had a hood one a car that again, had lots of surface rust and some pittng in areas. used the Phospo, then went over it with tractor ( iol based enamel) as a temporary sealer, ( just to see what would happen).... it stuck like glue but wrinkled in spots but never lifted. the D A with 60 grit had a hard time with it! LOL
I havn't painted in last twenty years ( until this summer) as I am allergic some components. the paints, primers with low VOC , I've had no problem with. I continue to learn and ask all the shops I find as to their methods. here in southwest Missouri, there are some small oneman shops, some talented people, they paint everything from tractors, to classics, occasional ins work, ... one shop hid way back, looked in his garage and there were 340 dart, mostly street rods, not a fancy place but astonishing work...
 
I looked at rust prone areas where water will go and rust will grow and thought "rust reform and/or inhibit applied like the water". So that's what I did. First use was years ago and a product called Neutra-Rust. Most recent is called Rust Ender. I've applied it with a brush, a pump spray bottle, and even poured it from the gallon jug. Used a little compressed air to push it too. Places like bottoms of quarter panels, bottoms of doors, hood, trunk lid, all those places where a body skin is folded over a substructure.
I've used it on rear ends, brake drums, and leaf springs too. None of this is meant to get a top coat of paint or any further effort. It does what I want to do, stops the current rust and prevent further/future rust. Next application will be vert rear seat spring frame assemblies ( that will be fun LOL ).
 
Evaporust hands down the best rust remover ever!!! works as well as molasses bath or any acidic
solution, but protects & prevents flash rust from forming. Wise to use physical removal methods
where poss. 1st as the product does get used up after a while and is $22/gal. but it does what they
claim. Used molasses bath 1st on a slapstik from a RR lots of nooks& crannies you just can't get at.
Then followed up w/evaporust.....2 1/2 mos. after it was finished & it is still just dull gray w/pits.
Even after being handled several times.picked it up at tractor supply, some parts houses carry it.
Good luck to you and your project!!
 
I have some evapo rust, but need something for areas I can't soak. Thanks for the advise.
 
If you view my resto thread (around page 29) you can see how bad the underside was. I used Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer after wire-wheeling and wiping down with isopropyl alcohol and topped it off with Rust-Oleum brush-on enamel. Hard as nails.
 
Ok, i guess if keeping wet towels on the surface or setting up a recirculating pump w/a catch
pan for runoff is out of the question, then you need to convert & encapsulate. My only insistence
regarding evaporust is its ability to remove & protect where it can get into the pinch weld overlaps.
That has spoiled many otherwise excellent restos incl. an alpine white superbird i am familiar
with in this area. The slightest recurrence in these areas pops out instantly on white cars!
Any rustoleum product is a good choice and modern products as mentioned by others here
just keep getting better.
I haven't checked lately, but, anybody know the final fate/outcome of the Tulsa timecapsule
Fury? Also, if I remember the gentleman had her on a lift pumping a solution over the body,
anybody know what that was?
 
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