Pulled the Mess that was my Timing Chain....

Coolant draining from the top left hole of the timing cover is normal; that hole goes into the water jacket. The circular machined circular mark on the right side of the cam area is OK. I forget what it is for but have seen it; it is for an oil relief or oil spreading slot around the sprocket thrust area.

The missing dowel pin in the cam is there for alignment (and is the ONLY alignment device for the sprocket on the cam) and the holes in the cam and sprocket are definitely egged out. I would not worry about any other damage inside the block. The engine stopped when the pin fell out and the valve timing got all out of whack.

If you want to try to salvage the cam with some careful work, you can slowly drill out the hole in the camshaft and put in a slightly larger pin and do the same on a new cam sprocket. Drill slowly and carefully. In fast, I would use a small reamer to get the lead in edge of the cam hole round and then drill slowly and with light pressure from there.

The pin is probably in the oil pan, but the screen should keep it from being sucked up. You might be able to slide a magnet slowly along the underside of the pan, pick it up, and drag it to the drain hole.

The cam sprocket is not the stock one; it is a replacement Cloyes. Someone did not properly torque and secure the cam bolt. This needs to be torqued to 45-50 ft lbs, not the FSM 35 ft lbs. AND you need to apply Locktite to the cam bolt too. This is a common issue.

Yes, the cam has ridden on block a bit but that is the normal thrust surface for the cam sprocket. It looks like the cam sprocket was not pulled down tight to the cam face on the dowel pin side and the cam sprocket was at a slight angle. Once again, improper torquing of the cam bolt is the culprit, along with just probably pushing the cam sprocket in place a bit crooked to start with. The original dowel pin will be a tight fit in the Cloyes replacement sprocket hole, so it is easy for folks to get the sprocket cocked if they are not familiar with this.

If you pull the cam to replace it or to rework the dowel hole, then the lifters pull up through the head. The lifters can get a varnish ring around the lower end that keeps the lifters from pulling up easily sometimes. You need a very strong magnet and perhaps some surgical locking forceps to grab the upper edge of the lifters to pull them out, and some patience. Some times a bit of carb cleaner or gum cutter around the lifter bore will help cut the varnish.