904 Trani

tiffinohio said
That makes sense. I checked my frictions and they all are the same thickness +- .005. I emailed the guys at Oregon Transmission where I got the rebuild kit to be sure if this is the case. I'm a little concerned about the 7 1/4 rear end too. I'm hoping the surelock will save it. Trying to keep things as stock as possible. The manual is from the Automatic Transmission Service Group. It shows for a 225CID 4 frict + 4 steels front and 4 frictions + 3 steels in the rear.

They must have sent you all thin discs like the rear clutch uses. If clearance properly that lets you get another disc in the front clutch. I just did that on my 904. The ATSG manuals have a lot of what the factory service manual has but they've added some extra stuff and I've found a few flaws but all in all it's a fair book.

tiffinohio said
There really wont be anything stock about it. Just the stock components with upgrades. More super stock I guess. Boring 0.060 over, Shaving .020 off block, .100 off head, trying to get to 9.75:1 CR. Building a new intake for EFI and putting twin 2.0L turbo's on it. Back yard port job on head and bigger valves. I'm hoping for a lot out of the leaning tower of power! Making the trani a race trani with performance parts from Oregon Performance Transmission. Probably going to need a cam but the stocker isnt too bad in this year, I'll have too see. Your bringing me down about the read end. Spent a ton on that surelock. If I have too I'll upgrade to an 8 3/4 that fits my spring pattern.

The suregrip 7-1/4 is a lot tougher than the open differential 7-1/4 but I bet it still won't last. And you don't have to upgrade to a 8-3/4. An 8-1/4 rear is a pretty tough little bugger and they were many used in A-bodies. I ran one in a Dakota I raced that ran low 14's and it held up for numerous trips down the 1/4 mile and 12 yrs of road service. That's what I'd go with if it were me. Since it has a rear cover like your 7-1/4 it'd look somewhat similar and it's a whole bunch cheaper than an 8-3/4