Cowl Rust! What is the best way to fix it?
The lower cowl is removed from the top side, it sits on top of the A pillar area and firewall seam. Once you torch the lead seams out you'll see two layers there. I never braced my car since it's really solid now and I never had to remove my lower cowl.. It definitly wouldn't hurt any to run 1" square tubing from A pillar to A pillar. If I were doing it I would run it across at the upper door hinge area. I'd also set jackstands on the frame rails and make sure it's sitting level. The A pillars from the top of the roof down to the rockers are really strong and multi layered with steel so I doubt anything will move as long as they're solid, but it never hurts to add bracing because you might find more surprises along the a pillars once you start removing metal.
I just glue the upper on and you can never tell it's been touched (still retains all the original spotweld markings) and is 100% sealed from leaks at the dash seam and firewall seam.
The lower cowl is removed from the top side, it sits on top of the A pillar area and firewall seam. Once you torch the lead seams out you'll see two layers there. I never braced my car since it's really solid now and I never had to remove my lower cowl.. It definitly wouldn't hurt any to run 1" square tubing from A pillar to A pillar. If I were doing it I would run it across at the upper door hinge area. I'd also set jackstands on the frame rails and make sure it's sitting level. The A pillars from the top of the roof down to the rockers are really strong and multi layered with steel so I doubt anything will move as long as they're solid, but it never hurts to add bracing because you might find more surprises along the a pillars once you start removing metal.
I just glue the upper on and you can never tell it's been touched (still retains all the original spotweld markings) and is 100% sealed from leaks at the dash seam and firewall seam.
