Some advice

I personally would not use that cam but even more so important is the intakes duration. With a stock converter, your limited in duration. A safe duration @ .050 is 218. Going beyond that the starting power RPM starts to go beyond what the OE converter is designed to do/handle/work right.

"That muscle car sound" is due to the cam's lobes and centerline. A quicker acting lobe and a cam on a 110 will have "That sound." Moving down to 108 increases that "Chop" and rhythm. At 106, it increases more, and so on...

A smooth idle can be obtained with a 112. Very smooth at 114.

Before we start in wit cam specs, can you tell us the gear ratio?

Or were you looking for a suggestion on how to possibly build this like a combo?
The 360 is the way to go for sure. If you keep the external balance, it will only take a B&M flex plate to use a neutral balanced converter. Cheap part to purchase!

He now has his stock 7.25 with 3.23's. He actually wants to go to a highway gear in the 8.25 so that he can cruise on the highway at a lower rpm. I was thinking 2.76 would probably work for him, but that also depends on what we find for a rear end when that time comes. Also note that he has 14 inch sbp wheels now, (245/60r14s in the back) and when we go to bbp I will get him to upgrade to 15s and a taller tire in the rear which will help out too.